The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
If the truffle may be described as an occult vegetable substance with
no stem, cap, or visible mycelium, in great repute with epicures, and
most generally found firmly embedded beneath the surface of _pâté de
foie gras_,--the mushroom, common to nearly all latitudes, grows in
visible profusion, and may be readily obtained for the seeking. Some
knowledge of genera and species, nevertheless, becomes necessary if one
would avail himself of this nutritious esculent. One must know what to
avoid as well as what to choose; for often highly dangerous sorts are
very nearly allied to the harmless.
Of recent years the study of fungi has received considerable attention,
and the mushroom has become much better known with us than formerly.
Compared with European countries, however, the average person still
knows little concerning its edible varieties. Few are unacquainted with
the most prevalent form, Agaricus campestris, whose shining white
pileus dots the meadows, pastures, and roadsides. But whether familiar
or unknown out of doors, no introduction to it will be required at
table. Its very mention makes one's mouth water, and evokes a longing
for the cool shadows of fall and the restful minor of the crickets'
choir.
To appreciate it thoroughly, one should gather it himself, or, rather,
in congenial companionship. And as its form is typical of femininity in
its rounded contours, its white satiny gown and rose-silk petticoat, to
say nothing of its dainty veil and frill, it is eminently proper that
madame or mademoiselle, as the case may be, should join in the quest.
On a bland September day, therefore, let the lanes and pastures remote
from the highway be explored in company when the first ripening sprays
of the sugar-maple are commencing to brighten and the clusters of the
everlasting are beginning to unfold. Then will the delights of the
chase prove doubly enjoyable; and with the common agaric as the object
of pursuit there will equally be little danger from mistaken varieties.
At most, the harmless horse-mushroom may obtrude, to be plucked and
cast aside.
But the mushroom is far from being confined to the pastures and fields,
or its duration limited to a few weeks of autumn; and despite the
excellent general dietetic advice of the fourth satire of the second
book, Horace's dictum should not be taken too seriously,--
"Best flavoured mushrooms meadow-land supplies,
In other kinds a dangerous poison lies."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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