The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"Oh, monseigneur," replied the conjurer, "you do not understand our
resources; say the word, and these fifty hams which confound you--I
will put them all into a glass bottle no bigger than your thumb!"
To be sure, the accounts given by Petronius Arbiter, Juvenal, Martial,
and other satirists must be taken with some limitation. Yet, making all
due allowance for exaggeration, it is hardly to be wondered at that
many of the olden rulers and opulent personages, armed with unbounded
power and possessed of unlimited riches, should have yielded so
abjectly to luxury and vice as to have fully warranted the stricture of
Juvenal:
"The baffled sons must feel the same desires,
And act the same mad follies as their sires.
_Vice has attained its zenith._..."
These accounts, moreover, attested as they are by serious annalists,
may not be dismissed as largely imaginative or grossly exaggerated.
The strictures on the besetting vices that occur in the contemporary
works of historians, moralists, philosophers, and poets are far too
vehement and voluminous to leave any doubt of the inordinate abuse
of the table among the ancients, particularly among the Romans, when
their wealthy capital, as Propertius records, "was beset all round
in its own victories." It was the period of insatiable voracity and
the peacock's plume. Even Martial was careful to state that it was
vices, not personages, to which his scourge was applied. His caustic
and highly seasoned epigrams deal largely with the dinner-table, and
from these one may derive a most realistic idea of the bill of fare of
his contemporaries, as well as of the varied and luxurious character
of the presents made to the guests at feasts. The excesses of eating
and drinking are roundly denounced by him at every turn, while his
picture of the crapulous Santra in the Seventh Book is only equalled by
the "Portrait of a Gourmand" of Carle Vernet, or Spenser's etching of
"Gluttony" in the "Faerie Queene."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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