The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"The Slaves behind in mighty Charger bore
A Crane in Pieces torn, and powder'd o'er
With Salt and Flour, and a white Gander's Liver,
Stuff'd fat with Figs, bespoke the curious Giver;
Besides the Wings of Hares, for, so it seems,
No man of Luxury the Back esteems.
Then saw we Black-birds with o'er roasted Breast,
Laid on the Board, and Ring-Doves Rump-less drest!
Delicious Fare! did not our Host explain
Their various Qualities in endless Strain,
Their various Natures; but we fled the Feast,
Resolved in Vengeance nothing more to taste,
As if Canidia, with empoison'd Breath,
Worse than a Serpent's, blasted it with Death."[6]
That Nasidienus was proverbially penurious, was guilty of purchasing
tainted game in order to save expense, and would have been chary of
his wines had it not been for Servilius, who cried loudly for "larger
goblets," leads one to conclude that even his repast was far below
those of the pampered upper classes in its prodigality.
Apicius, who is referred to by Pliny, Seneca, Juvenal, and Martial,
is said to have squandered nearly four million dollars in riotous
living, when, looking over his accounts, he found he had only about a
tenth of that amount remaining, and, unwilling to starve on such a
pittance, he poisoned himself. Of the three persons bearing the name of
Apicius, one of whom lived in the times of Sulla, another during the
reign of Tiberius, and the third under Trajan, none is supposed to be
the author of "De re Culinaria," since published in so many different
editions, a work now ascribed to Cœlius, who, in admiration of
the renowned Marcus Gabius, termed himself Apicius. The latter, the
richest of the three who bore the name by right, vied with royalty in
his regal tastes. He is reported as having voyaged to Africa expressly
to ascertain whether the crawfish there were superior to those he was
accustomed to have at Minturnæ; but finding them inferior, he returned
immediately, without setting foot to land. "Look at Nomentanus and
Apicius," says Seneca, "who digest all the good things, as they call
them, of the sea and the land, and review upon their tables the whole
animal kingdom. Look at them as they lie on beds of roses, gloating
over their banquet and delighting their ears with music, their eyes
with exhibitions, their palates with flavours."
Where the deliciously scented cyclamen carpets the shore of the
Mediterranean in myriads at Baiæ, Apicius repaired to savour
shell-fish--"the manna of the sea"--and from the self-same sea that
laves the isle of Capri and rolls its azure wave into the famed blue
grotto, Tiberius sent turbots to him that Apicius was not rich enough
to buy himself.
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