The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Yet far exceeding Apicius, who was almost deified for discovering how
to maintain oysters fresh and alive during long journeys, was his
predecessor Lucullus, the wealthy general, a great patron of learning
and the arts, as well as the king of epicures. Juvenal has etched his
portrait in four lines:
"Stretch'd on the unsocial couch, he rolls his eyes
O'er many an orb of matchless form and size,
Selects the fairest to receive his plate,
And at one meal devours a whole estate."
The Monte Cristo of Naples, he pierced a mountain to place two of his
country villas in closer communication and to conduct the sea-water to
one of them, where he had constructed a huge aquarium for sea-fish.
His carvers were paid at the rate of four thousand a year. The various
dining-rooms at his Neapolitan palace were designed according to the
costliness of the repasts which were given in them, the saloon of
Apollo being the most sumptuous. Cicero and Pompey, resolving one day
to surprise him, presented themselves unceremoniously, and, upon being
pressed to remain to dinner, assented on condition that he would go to
no extra trouble. Summoning his major-domo, he dismissed him with the
simple command:
"Place two more covers in the saloon of Apollo"--the cost of the dinner
in this apartment being fixed at a thousand dollars per plate.
No review of the Roman table, however brief, would be complete without
retelling the story of Lucullus as his own host. On this occasion,
when, through some misunderstanding, he was without guests for dinner,
his cook appeared as usual to receive his orders.
"I am alone," said Lucullus; whereupon his servitor, thinking that
a five-hundred-dollar dinner would suffice, acted accordingly. At
the conclusion of his repast, his face flushed with the juices of
Falernian, Lucullus sent for his minister of the interior and took him
severely to task. There were no fig-peckers, and the prized spawn of
the sea-lamprey was missing. The cook was profuse in his apologies.
"But, seigneur, you were alone--"
"It is precisely when I happen to be alone that you require to pay
especial attention to the dinner; at such times you must remember that
Lucullus dines with Lucullus."
The great dining-room of Claudius, termed "Mercury," was constructed
on an equally magnificent scale. But this was eclipsed by Nero's
marvellous _Domus aurea_, which, through a circular movement of
its sides and ceiling, counterfeited the changes of the skies and
represented the different seasons of the year, while at intervals
during the repast flowers and essences were showered down upon the
guests.
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