Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, 51-52; Berchoux's reference to a, 74; importance of a good, 113; attributes necessary for a good, 203, 207; anecdote of a new, 259; anecdote of a, 393 Cook-book, the ideal, defined, 442-446 Cook-books, early Italian, 49; early Spanish, 50; early French, 52; early English, 81 _et seq._, 317; 17th-century English, 93 _et seq._; old German, 147-148, 150; modern (_vide_ specific references), written by the clergy, 281 Cookery, its relation to life and health, 3, 70, 71, 251, 257-258, 286, 430; modern progress in, 4; _vs._ matrimony, 6; Italian school of, 6, 49, 51, 195; compared to painting, 6, 203; in Biblical times, 7, 8, 9; of the ancient Persians, 11, 12; of the ancient Greeks, 13 _et seq._; of the ancient Sicilians, 14; of the ancient Romans, 24 _et seq._; period of its greatest distinction in Rome, 25; decline of ancient, 48; _vs._ literature and art, 48; the renaissance of, 49 _et seq._; of Spain, 50,423; its relation to the mind, 64, 176; _vs._ diplomacy, 70; home _vs._ the haute-cuisine, 72, 350, 429; cry of its decadence, 79, 258; Parisian school of, in England, 99; of the English rural classes, 101, 102; modern English, 111, 269 _et seq._; importance of good writers on, 113, 199; period of its greatest distinction in France, 116; complementary to national beverages, 151, 153; excellence of German, 156, 174; Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, 201; of America, 249 _et seq._; of the modern French, 259 (_vide_ also special references); its relation to the church, 280 _et seq._; a difficult art, 442. _Vide_ also "Gastronomy" Cooking-schools, 251, 260 Cooks, jealousy of, 14, 202; regulating the health of, 136 "Cook's Oracle (The)," 316 _et seq._ Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, 62 Cucumber, remote use of, 9; its virtues, 425 Cuisine, the ideal, defined, 258 Cuisine classique (the), 200 "Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, 203; referred to, 206, 349 Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, 192 Curé, anecdote of a, 293 Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, 67, 127, 211, 213, 225, 305; quoted, 120, 181, 201, 346, 383, 408 Cuyp, referred to, 6, 203, 245 Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, 337-339 De Candolle, referred to, 256 Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, 144 Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, 112 "Délices de la Campagne (Les)," 59 Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, 71 De Quincey on midday dining, 146 "De re Culinaria," 29, 41, 50 Désaugiers, poem on women, 119 Dessert, its mission defined, 430; etymology of the term, 438 Dickens (Charles), on dining, 329