The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
With the advent of Heliogabalus upon the throne, gluttony and
extravagance reigned supreme. By this youthful monarch, during his
brief reign of four years, the tyranny of Nero, and Caligula, the
lust of Claudius and Commodus, the prodigality of Vitellius, the
saturnalia and riotous living of Verres and Domitian were trebly
exceeded. Entering Rome from Syria in a chariot drawn by naked women,
surrounded with eunuchs, courtesans, and buffoons, wearing the tiara
of the priests of the sun-god, dressed as a female in stuffs of silk
and gold, and accompanied by a historiographer whose sole function it
was to describe his orgies, he at once eclipsed all his predecessors.
The Sardanapalus of Rome, his daily feasts are said to have consisted
of over twoscore courses, and to have cost not less than ten thousand
dollars each.
As related by Lampridius, his table-couches were stuffed with hares'
down or partridges' feathers, his beds adorned with coverlets of
gold, and in his kitchens none but richly chased utensils of silver
were employed. The invention of a new sauce was royally rewarded by
him, but if it was not relished the inventor was confined, to partake
of nothing else until he had produced another more agreeable to the
imperial palate. The liver of the priceless mullet seeming too paltry
to Heliogabalus, he was served with large dishes completely filled with
the gills. He brought the soft roe of the rare sea-eel into disrepute
by maintaining a fleet of fishing craft for their capture, and ordering
that the peasants of the Mediterranean should be gorged with them.
Resides countless dishes, each of which was worth the price of a king's
ransom, he was the inventor of coloured decorations at table. "In the
summer," says Lampridius, "Heliogabalus gave feasts at which the
service was composed of different colours, constantly varied throughout
the season." The brains of partridges and ostriches were among his
favourite dainties. Frequently the brains of six hundred ostriches were
served at a single repast, as well as the heads of innumerable parrots,
pheasants, and peacocks. He had cockscombs served in pâtés, and was
therefore the inventor of _vol au vent à la financière_. The tongues of
nightingales and thrushes he had likewise served in pâtés, and hearing
that a strange bird, the phœnix, existed in Lydia, he offered two
hundred pieces of gold to him who would procure it. In the course of
his reign of four years he had depleted the treasury of an empire
largely through gluttony, and died, anticipating the assassination of
his soldiers, by his own hand.
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