The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving — John Shaqi
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Equally sumptuous were the entertainments of the Prince de Condé, in
whose cuisine during certain seasons there were regularly consumed as
many as a hundred and fifty pheasants a week.
Meanwhile, Molière and Boileau had sung the praises of gastronomy, but
not to that degree which was to charm France during the consulate and
the empire, when its harp had been touched by the facile fingers of
Berchoux.
Numerous cook-books had already appeared and exerted their influence
since the "Viandier" first pointed out the way. He who would give a
dinner _à la Louis XIV_ should consult "Les Délices de la Campagne,"
a volume published in 1654, of which many editions were afterwards
issued, the author being Nicolas de Bonnefons, valet de chambre of
the king. From this treatise one may form an idea of the variety and
profusion of the dishes then in vogue, and to what perfection and
luxury the science had attained.[9] In the previous year appeared the
celebrated "Pastissier François," the Amsterdam edition of which is
among the most famous of the Elzevirs--a copy originally priced at a
few sous having been sold for ten thousand francs, which would seem a
rather exorbitant price to pay for instructions in seventeenth-century
pastry-making and preparing eggs for fat and lean days.
The tragic death of Vatel by his own hand, owing to the non-arrival
of the sea-fish at Chantilly, is too well known to need narrating.
Vatel, the victim of his art, was also an author, having contributed
an illustrated treatise on carving entitled "l'Escuyer Tranchant,"
an accomplishment which he states could scarcely be acquired without
the ministration and the precepts of the master--_sans la voye et les
preceptes du maistre_. A paragraph will serve to show the nature and
scope of his contribution to culinary literature:
"A carver should be well bred, inasmuch as he should maintain
a first rank among the servants of his master. Pleasing,
civil, amiable, and well disposed, he should present himself
at table with his sword at his side, his mantle on his
shoulder, and his napkin on his left arm, though some are in
the habit of placing it on the guard of their sword in an
unobjectionable manner. He should make his obeisance when
approaching the table, proceed to carve the viands, and
divide them understandingly according to the number of the
guests. Ordinarily he should station himself by the side of
his master, carving with knives suitable to the size of the
meats. A carver should be very scrupulous in his deportment,
his carriage should be grave and dignified, his appearance
cheerful, his eye serene, his head erect and well combed,
abstaining as much as possible from sneezing, yawning, or
twisting his mouth, speaking very little and directly, without
being too near or too far from the table."
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