The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving — John Shaqi
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Assuredly, one who observed such nicety in his carving must have been
extremely painstaking in compounding his _liaisons_. Indeed, the
conscientiousness manifest throughout the pages of his manual easily
enables one to foresee how his chagrin at the absence of the roast at
two of the tables and his not having received the fish at the fête
of Condé so preyed upon his mind as to lead him, during a moment
of despair, to fall upon his own sword.[10] With his sense of the
proprieties so highly keyed, one can also fancy how he must have been
shocked on hearing of the prince's awkwardness at a tavern where Condé,
after proclaiming his ability as a cook before a number of companions,
ignominiously overturned an omelette into the fire, and was compelled
to return the spider to the more skilful hands of the hostess. A
similar gaucherie is related of Napoleon I when, one day at the
Tuileries, insisting on taking the place of the Empress Marie-Louise,
who was making an omelette herself in her own apartments, he awkwardly
flipped it on the floor, and was obliged to confess his inaptitude and
allow the empress to proceed with her cooking.
During the regency of Philippe d'Orléans, attention became directed to
the chemistry of cooking, the dinners of the regent being celebrated
for their combination of refinement and art--"for splendidly larded
viands, matelotes of the most tempting quality, and turkeys superbly
stuffed."
Louis XV, who was himself a practitioner of remarkable skill,
continued, with the aid of his cooks--Moustier and Vincent de la
Chapelle--to foster the development which his predecessors had
promoted. "Who could enumerate," says Mercier, "all the dishes of
the new cuisine? It is an absolutely new idiom. I have tasted viands
prepared in so many ways and fashioned with such art that I could not
imagine what they were." "Louis XV ate astoundingly," says Barbier;
"although his stomach was extremely elastic, he forced it to such an
extent that his indigestions were of great frequency, and called for
constant medication. Already at an early age he became a great drinker
of champagne, and set the mode for cold pâtés of larks. The table was
the only serious occupation of his life." On hunting-days it was a
frequent practice of the king to give a dinner for his courtiers at
which each was called upon to prepare a dish. De la Gorse mentions
a dinner given at St. Hubert where all the dishes were prepared by
the Prince de Beaufremont, the Marquis de Polignac, and the Ducs de
Gontaut, d'Ayen, de Coigny, and de la Vallière, the king on his part
contributing the _poulets au basilic_.
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