The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
It was the secretary's place to take note of all controversies and
decisions, which he afterward drew up and elaborated, submitting his
reports to the president at the following meeting for verification. An
extract of these decisions, duly collated, was sent to the interested
persons. All forms of eatables and drinkables constituted part of the
jury's deliberations, and of these contributions only a single sample
was passed upon at a time. When the judgments were unfavourable to the
artist whose handiwork had been submitted, he was advised accordingly,
in order that he might correct and that at a subsequent test of the
same object he might prove that he had profited by the disinterested
verdict. If he refused to do so, the decision was printed in the
following "Almanach" as it originally stood. It was noted that many
merchants and culinary artists lived on their reputations, taking
advantage of a formerly celebrated name to deceive the public and abuse
its confidence long after they had ceased to merit it, whilst, on the
other hand, an obscure person endowed perchance with great talent and
zealous in his art was not unfrequently the inventor of productions
worthy of the greatest masters. It was the purpose of the jury and its
exponent to expose the former and rescue the latter from oblivion.
Naturally, these attacks on the manufacturers and venders often brought
their rejoinders, some of which were by no means devoid of interest,
as, for instance, a letter from a certain M. Grec, a merchant who
had sold a spoiled pate to a customer and refused to take it back in
exchange for other merchandise:
"I am at a loss to comprehend, Monsieur, why you should have
attached an infamous note to my name in the fifth year of your
'Almanach.' A lawyer who is not without reputation wished me
to attack you in return, telling me I could lead you a merry
chase (_que je pourrais vous mener loin_). I did not care to
follow his advice, because I reflected that your book and its
author are far from being makers of reputations, either for
good or for bad; perhaps the public, which appreciates you at
your true value, has formed an opinion directly contrary to
that you express.
"On this hypothesis, far from having to complain of you, I owe
you my thanks. To this end, I have even thought of offering
substantial proof by sending you a fine _truffled turkey_
whose aroma, penetrating your olfactories, would exercise
its benign influence, and inspire a good word for me in the
future. But I restrain myself, for the reasons I have just
stated and the fact that any good you might say might have the
effect of injuring me in the eyes of the public.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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