The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
It is a long stone's throw from the first apple eaten in the Garden
of Eden--and this was a wild fruit, and not a Spitzenberg or a
Northern Spy--to a Chartreuse à la bellevue or that triumph of the
ovens of Alsace--the pâté de foie gras. The first dish of which any
record exists is the red pottage of lentils for which Esau sold his
birthright--a form of food still very common in Germany and France. The
first direct mention of breadstuffs in the Bible occurs in Genesis,
where Abraham tenders the angel a morsel of bread, and bids Sarah make
ready quickly three measures of fine meal, knead it, and make cakes
upon the hearth.
The primitive tribes and nations were content of necessity with the
spoils of the chase and the then more limited products of the vegetable
world; and long before John the Baptist's time the Hebrews lived to
no small extent upon locusts and kindred insects. In his enumeration
of the animal food which they might eat without rendering themselves
unclean, Moses specifies four insects of the locust family (Lev. x,
22). Some species of the _Locusta_ are yet esteemed a delicacy in the
East, these being cooked with oil, roasted upon wooden spits, baked in
ovens, or broiled. The Bedouins, who are ever on the march, pack them
with salt in close masses, carrying them in their leathern sacks.
By the Athenians they were usually roasted; and mention is made by
Athenæus of an _archimagirus_, or master cook, who, in his tour around
the ovens and stock-pots, enjoins one of his subalterns to take the
utmost precaution with them and see that they obtain only a light
golden hue.
Eggs, milk, rice, and honey, onions, succory, leeks, and garlic, the
leaves of the vine, radishes, and carrots, with other growths of the
garden, formed the staple articles of diet among ancient peoples.
Vegetable food was more common than animal, the latter being served
principally in the case of entertainments and special occasions of
hospitality (Gen. xviii, 7, 8). Instead of lard and butter, olive oil
was employed, and is still almost entirely employed by the Orientals.
Fish constituted an important article of diet, together with game,
lambs, and kids. Though not common, the flesh of young bullocks and
stall-fed oxen was highly prized (Prov. xv, 17; Matt. xxii, 4), the
shoulder being considered the choicest part. The master of the house
was the matador, and upon the mistress devolved the preparation of the
food. Among primitive cooks, Rebekah proved herself a performer of no
mean ability, as instanced by her dressing the flesh of a young kid
after the manner of venison, in order to obtain a father's blessing
for her favourite son. Roots, berries, fruits, and the quarry of
the bow and harpoon composed the fare of aboriginal man, and proved
all-sufficient. When the struggle for physical existence called
for strong exercise in procuring necessary food, little variety in
nutriment sufficed, at no loss of brawn and sinew.
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