The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
With many savage races, bread-fruit, nuts, the plantain, the
cocoa-palm--known as the "tree of life"--with numerous other
food-yielding palms, served as a principal means of subsistence. The
first fruit-tree cultivated by man is said by all the most ancient
writers to be the fig, the vine being next in order. The almond and
pomegranate were cultivated at an early date in Canaan, and the fig,
grape, pomegranate, and melon were known to Egypt from time immemorial.
In Solon's law's, the olive, the fig, and the vine are enumerated,
as also the cabbage, crambe, or sea-kale, pulse of various kinds,
and onions. Cabbage and asparagus were known to the Greeks from the
earliest ages, and by them the chestnut, largely utilised for food,
was termed the "Oak of Jupiter." The original home of wheat and barley
is supposed to be Mesopotamia and the fertile plains of the Euphrates,
whence, after a period of cultivation, they spread eastward to China
and westward to Syria and thence to Europe. Among other food-stuffs
of the inhabitants were onions, vetches, kidney-beans, egg-plants,
pumpkins, lentils, cucumbers, chick-peas, and beans--with such fruits
as the apple, fig, apricot, pistachio, almond, walnut, and the product
of the palm and vine.
Coffee, of very remote use in Abyssinia, was unknown to the early
Greeks and Romans; they were, however, familiar with the cucumber,
cultivated in India for at least three thousand years. The cucumber
was also known to Moses and the Israelites, the patriarch referring to
fish and cucumbers, melons and leeks, as among the delicacies that were
freely eaten in Egypt (Numbers xi, 5). Various kinds of _Cichorium_,
or chicory, were familiar to antiquity, while _Lactuca_, or lettuce,
was extensively grown as a salad. The onion was a favourite with the
ancient Egyptians, garlic likewise being made much use of--a plant
denounced by their priests as unclean.[1]
Baking in ovens is of great antiquity, the ovens of old Egypt
being frequently represented in contemporary paintings. The table
appointments of Egypt are similarly portrayed in her paintings--the
guests of both sexes seated in gala attire, with jewelled fingers
holding the lily of the Nile or sacred lotus, while slaves, naked
except for necklace and girdle, served them with viands and wines.
Differing from the Egyptians, the Greeks and Romans excluded women from
their feasts, agreeing with the sentiment of Fulbert Dumonteil that for
a true gourmand there exist no blue eyes, white teeth, or rosy lips
that may take the place of a black truffle. The only exception related
to the cup-bearers--fair youths and tender maids--who were enjoined to
refuse nothing to the guests, and the richly and gorgeously arrayed
_hetæræ_, the voluptuous Aspasias, Barinés, and Phrynes of the period,
who made their appearance at the conclusion of the repast.
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