The Principles of Leather Manufacture — John Shaqi
The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
In whatever way the hair has been loosened, it is scraped off with a
blunt and somewhat curved two-handled knife on a sloping rounded “beam”
of wood or metal; this operation being termed “unhairing” (see p. 144).
This is generally followed by “fleshing,” which is performed on the same
beam with a somewhat similar knife, which, however, is two-edged and
sharp. In this operation, portions of flesh, and the fat and loose
tissue which underlie the true skin (see p. 147) are removed by scraping
and cutting. Machines for fleshing are also largely in use for certain
purposes (see p. 148).
For sole leather, the hide, after some washing in soft water to cleanse
from lime, is then ready for the actual tanning process; but for the
softer leathers more thorough treatment is needed to remove the lime,
and to still further soften the skin by solution and removal of a
portion of the cementing substance of the fibres.
This treatment is generally of a fermentive or putrefactive nature, and
the most common form is that known as “bating,” which consists in
steeping in a fermenting infusion of pigeon- or hen-dung. The theory of
its action is not yet thoroughly understood, but the effect is largely
due to the unorganised hydrolysing ferments produced by the _bacteria_
present; while at the same time the lime is neutralised and removed by
the weak organic acids and salts of ammonia which are produced; and the
fibre which had been plump and swollen with lime, becomes extremely
relaxed and flaccid.
In the lightest leathers, such as kid- and lamb-skins for gloves, and
goat and sheep for moroccos and the like, dog-dung is substituted for
that of fowls, and the process is then called “puering” (see p. 170).
These processes are often followed by “drenching,” which sometimes
indeed takes their place, the skins being soaked in a fermenting bran
infusion. In this, the small quantities of acetic and lactic acid formed
by fermentation are the active agents, neutralising and dissolving the
lime, and cleansing and slightly plumping the pelt (see p. 166).
The tanning process which follows consists in soaking the pelt in
infusions of various vegetable products containing bodies of the class
known as “tannins,” which have the power of combining with skin-fibre
and converting it into leather.
If at first strong infusions were used, they would act too violently on
the surface of the skin, hardening and contracting it so that the
subsequent tannage of the interior would be impeded, and the “grain” or
outer surface would be “drawn” and wrinkled. This is avoided by the use
at first of very weak infusions which have already been used on goods in
a more advanced stage. In the later part of the process much stronger
solutions are employed, and the hides are frequently “dusted” in them
with ground tanning material.
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