The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
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The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
The process of sole leather tanning has been discussed in considerable
detail on account of its simplicity and importance. It is now time to
point out in what respects the tannage of the lighter leathers differs
from it in principle. Taking the case of ordinary dressing leathers,
such as kips and shaved hides, the first point to remember is that these
goods come into the liquors not merely almost entirely deprived of lime
by bating, but in a very flat and fallen condition from the action of
the bacterial ferments of the bate. As a general rule in this country
the colouring is done in paddles, but where a very smooth grain is
required, the use of suspenders is to be recommended, and in America is
largely adopted. Indeed in the States the entire tannage of much of the
cheaper leather is done in suspension, and the sides are only removed
from the laths to which they have been nailed, when they are required
for splitting. It is obvious, from what has been said of sole leather,
that as the hides are brought into liquors in a very fallen and extended
condition, the grain will be likely to be wrinkled; and indeed this is
sure to be the case unless, by suspension, the hide is more or less kept
in tension till its fibres are fixed by tanning. The free motion in the
paddle favours the formation of a “pebbled” grain, since the hide is
bent now this way, now that, and minute wrinkles and creases are formed
in all directions. For many purposes, and especially if a grain is
afterwards to be raised by “boarding” the curried leather, this graining
in the paddle is not disadvantageous, so long as it is not excessive. In
some other cases it causes much trouble and labour to the currier before
it is removed, and if the English tanner and currier are ever to compete
with the American in smooth grain finishes, it will be necessary for
them to obviate this source of wasted labour. The graining is the less
considerable, and the easier to remove, the weaker and more mellow are
the liquors employed in colouring and the more gradually their strength
is increased.
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