The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
It is now not uncommon to combine a degree of alum or chrome tannage
with vegetable tannage in the finer dressing leathers. For further
information on this the reader must be referred to the next chapter.
The finest sorts of leather such as goat, calf, sheep and seal for
bookbinding, upholstery and the like, are mostly tanned with sumach;
paddles and drums being largely used to quicken the operation. Leather
tanned with sumach has been proved by the researches of the committee of
the Society of Arts on the decay of bookbinding leathers[127] to be the
most durable leather for this purpose, some other tanning materials of
the pyrogallol class coming near it in this respect, while all catechol
tannages are found peculiarly liable to destruction by the action of
sunlight, dry heat, gas fumes, and traces of sulphuric acid from other
sources, although in many cases more durable than the pyrogallol
tannages when exposed to mechanical wear and moisture, as is the case
with shoe-leather (p. 298). East India sheep- and goat-skins (so-called
“Persians”) are tanned with the catechol tannin of turwar or cassia
bark.
[127] Soc. of Arts Journ., 1901, p. 14.
[Illustration: FIG. 42_a_.--Interior of Light Leather Tannery.]
The finer leathers of which we are now speaking are almost invariably
prepared for tanning by puering with dog-dung, and drenching with bran,
as colour and softness are the special characteristics aimed at. A
somewhat interesting style of tannage is occasionally used for
sheep-skins (roans), and calf-skins, in which the skin is sewn into a
bag, flesh side out, with only a small aperture left for filling at one
of the shanks. It is then turned grain-side out, and filled with strong
sumach liquor, and a little leaf sumach, and floated in a bath of warm
sumach liquor. After a short immersion, the skins are piled on a stage,
so that the liquor is pressed through them by their weight; and when
partially empty, they are refilled and the process repeated. The time of
tannage is very short, not exceeding about twenty-four hours, and the
leather produced is very soft.
CHAPTER XVII.
_COMBINATION OF VEGETABLE AND MINERAL TANNAGE._
In very early times leathers were produced, which were partly tanned
with alum, and partly with vegetable materials. One of the earliest of
these was probably the Swedish or Danish glove-leather. The principle
has long been applied to the production of certain very tough and
flexible leathers known as “green leather,” and used for “picker-bands”
for looms, laces for belting, “combing-leathers” and some other purposes
where softness and toughness are of principal importance. About
twenty-five years since, it was applied in America by Mr. Kent to the
manufacture of an imitation of glazed kid, which he named Dongola
leather; and since that time, the method in various modifications, has
taken a considerable place in the manufacture of the finer leathers for
shoe purposes, especially in the United States.
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