The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
Alum-tanned leathers, as has been already stated, are remarkable for
softness and toughness, and the mineral (crystalloid) tannages have the
power of penetrating and isolating the individual fibrils of the skin in
a much greater degree than the vegetable tannins, and hence are less
dependent than the latter on a previous isolation produced by liming. On
the other hand, they give much less plumpness and solidity, and more
liability to stretch, and are less resistant to the action of water; and
are, as a general rule (to which some chrome-tannages are an exception),
incapable of producing a soft leather without mechanical softening
(staking) after the tannage is completed. Purely mineral tannages have
always a woolly fibrous structure, and never the firm and compact flesh
which is required in leathers which are to be “waxed,” or finished on
the flesh side to a smooth surface, and as they communicate more or less
of these peculiarities to combination-tannages, the latter are mostly
used, either for grain-finish, or for uses where a soft and velvety
flesh-side is required, as in the case of “ooze-” or “velvet-” calf. On
the other hand, the partial use of vegetable tannage communicates to
them a degree of plumpness, fulness and resistance to water which is not
possible to alum-tannages pure and simple, and a softness which is not
easily obtained in vegetable tannage without the use of large quantities
of fats or oils. A preliminary mineral tannage also greatly increases
the rapidity of the penetration of the vegetable tans, by isolating the
fibres, and rendering them less gelatinous. Once a leather is
_thoroughly_ tanned by vegetable materials, it is little affected by
subsequent treatment with alumina, or even with chrome; and on the other
hand, though chrome and alumina leathers are still capable of absorbing
considerable quantities of vegetable tannins, they always retain, in a
degree, the qualities which the mineral tannage has communicated to
them. The resulting leathers are thus not only modified by the different
proportion of vegetable and mineral tannages which have been given, and
by the properties of the particular vegetable tannage used; but by the
order in which the several treatments have been given, and always
retain, to a considerable extent, the characteristics of that which has
been first applied. We have thus in our hands a powerful means of
modifying the character of our leather to suit the special requirements
which it is to fulfil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account