I walked out through the clean uneven streets just as the townspeople
were beginning to stir, passed under the massive towered gateway in the
old walls, and got on to the level road which reaches half-way across
the island. The waking hour was earlier here. The hawks and eagles were
patrolling the morning air with diligent sweeps. The country-folk were
bringing in loads of farm-produce on big brown donkeys and little gray
donkeys. These last all gave a courteous "Bon di tenga,"[1] and I
noticed that most of them stared at me somewhat curiously. It was not
my dress that they looked at--it was my face that drew their stares;
and after a mile or so's pacing it was borne in upon me that anxious
thoughts had caused my forehead to knit and my mouth to pucker. I made
the discovery with some contempt. Haigh had told me more than once that
I should never make a gambler, and he was right. In principle I
accepted the theory that "what was written was written," but in
practice I couldn't help imagining that a ready-penned Fate might be
partly erased by much rubbing.
[1] The common salutation throughout the Balearic Islands is
_Bon di tenga_ from an inferior to a superior, to which the reply
would be _Bon di_. Frequently, however, the first of these is
clipped down to the last word, which is pronounced "T[=a][=i]n-g[)a]."
After dark it becomes _Bon nit_, or _Bon nit tenga_, according
to social standing.
I refilled my pipe and looked around me. Old Lully had shown some
_nous_ in choosing a country to carry his secret. There is small
fear of Minorca's population ever growing excessive. Not even Connemara
can show such stone heaps. The walls which divide up the tiny fields
are often ten feet thick; there are rubble cairns on all the many
outcrops of rock; there are boulder-girdles round the trees; and yet,
despite these collections, the corn and the beans and the grass grow
more in stone than soil. One almost wonders that the Minorcan does not
build up stone circles round the cows' legs whilst they are grazing.
Perhaps the _Doctor Illuminatus_ might have hesitated if his
prophetic eye had seen an invasion of British; for the Briton is a
destructive animal with pig-like instincts of rootling up everything.
But the foreigner's tenure of the soil (and stones) was not a long one,
and I fancy that the country's face, save for some of the better roads
that seam it, is much the same as it was in the year of our Lord
thirteen hundred and nothing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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