China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
Many-faceted is the life in a Siberian city. In numerous ways it
seems feverish and abnormal, for it represents the young blood of a
capable race struggling upward, and knowing that in much its battle
is desperate. The towns have hardly yet got settled methods; they are
outgrown villages where men of all stamps, who have become enriched
in the new land, come for the pleasures or the benefit of a less
monotonous existence. The traditions of peasant origins survive in the
conditions and general civic neglect.
Irkutsk, once its novelties have become familiar, has lost its charm.
That it is provincial is no discredit, but its amusements are of the
grosser order, unredeemed by wit. Every evening the tawdry dining-room
at the hotel echoes the songs and noise of the revelers. The same
circle attends the theatres. The students discuss hotly the rights
of man and the Valhalla prepared for all martyrs, and calm simple
wholesome life seems to be reserved for the workaday world which moves
on its slow toilsome upward way in silence.
There is, however, to-night an unwonted stir at the Hôtel Métropole.
The corridors are thronged. A Russian friend points out the notables.
The blue-uniformed official yonder with the gray mustache and the row
of glittering orders on his breast is the Governor-General. Half a
dozen members of the local bar, in frock-coats, pass through. In the
dining-room a young lieutenant, dashingly clad in long maroon coat
with the row of silver-topped cartouches and the clattering sabre of
the Emperor’s Cossack Guard, is being deferentially entertained by
officers of the garrison. Three officials are taking champagne with
two beautifully gowned women, Parisiennes even to their long pendant
earrings. The hotel-pages in fresh red blouses and high boots pass here
and there with messages. The waiters, with intensified deference, glide
among the crowd in its many-colored uniforms and glittering war-medals.
“Who has arrived?” we ask, surveying the scene.
“A member of the Imperial Cabinet.”
The announcement of his name has a personal interest and memories of
earlier stays in Russia.
The Minister’s life has been a romance indeed. Disagreeing with his
family through liberal ideas, he went in 1862 to Birkenhead as a
locomotive engineer, to the United States, to Argentine, and returning
to Russia worked up from a very small government position to be chief
of all the Russian roads, railways, and telegraphs, and Minister of
Ways and Communications in the Czar’s Cabinet. His brain threw the line
of rails over half a continent. On the outbreak of the Japanese War he
was called from his retirement to the colossal task of bringing to the
front across the width of Asia half a million men, their artillery and
arms, their food, their transport, all on the one line of rails. He has
served under three Emperors and is life-member of the Senate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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