China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
One meets quaint characters in this inland journeying--veteran soldiers
of the Turkestan advance; “_sabbato_ sectarians,” who keep Saturday
holy rather than Sunday; austere “Old Believers,” traveling peddlers,
teamsters who have tramped beside their ponies over three provinces.
One comes upon peripatetic Mussulman doctors, in snug-fitting black
coats and small black skull-caps, who show their Arabic-worded
road-maps and much-thumbed medical works bound in worn leather. Beside
their plates at table the kindly hostess puts piles of leathery bread,
unleavened, and made without lard in deference to their caste rules.
[Illustration: PEASANT TYPES]
A shop in one village is kept by a Chinaman, who, lettered like most
of his race, seems a far shrewder and more intellectual person than
the uneducated Russian peasants. He invites the stranger to drink
tea that his special caravan brings, and presents Chinese candy with
the courtesy of a grandee. When, in reciprocity, the traveler buys
sugar for his _chai_, he receives it wrapped in paper covered with
hieroglyphics and exhaling the faint unmistakable Chinese odor.
Going always southward, one begins to meet more and more frequently
the villages of the Mongol-descended Buriats. “_Bratskie_” (brotherly
people), the Russians call them, for despite the forbidding aspect
that flat Mongolian features, high thin noses, yellow-brown skins, and
big squat bodies give them, no more peaceful, harmless, and hospitable
people exist. They are great and fearless hunters, unexcelled riders,
and though still only on the threshold of civilization, are rapidly
moving to better things.
All phases of the advance from the nomad to the agricultural stage may
be studied among them. The pastoral Buriats, decorated like the Chinese
with queues, ride around after their flocks. Their villages lie far
away from the lines of convoys, unmarked on the Ministry map, which one
is supposed to be following. Each family occupies a little windowless
wooden hut, some fifteen feet in diameter. In front of it is planted
a pole, carrying at the top a weather-faded pennant, the colors of
which in Buriat heraldry indicate the tribe and name of the occupant.
Behind the hut are stacks of hay and a wooden corral with sheep and
horses. Beside it stands the summer tent, of felt, looking like a great
inverted bowl. It is empty in winter, save for a shrine with grotesque
pictured gods, fronted by offerings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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