China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
All the while one has an eerie undefined sentiment that something is
lacking. It is not that the houses which face the narrow main street
are low and poor, that the gray mud-walled compounds are grimly
unwelcoming with their closed iron-studded gates. It is not that the
small stocks of goods in the shops tell of a vanished prosperity, now
that the bulk of the tea-trade has left. It is not anything material,
but an oppressive indefinable feeling that something is lacking. Only
when Alexsimevich makes a chance remark, do you realize consciously
what it was you instinctively felt, “It is queer to be in a city where
there is not a woman or child.”
Some have explained the exclusion law which controls the situation by
the self-sufficiency of the Chinese, who wished no real settlement of
their people here,--the fruit of a pride deep-rooted as that underlying
the custom which brings every corpse back to China for burial. Others,
by the desire to avoid transmitting to the Empire the diseases that are
rife in Mongolia. Whatever the basis, the regulation is in full force
to-day. At one time merchants in Maimachen kept their wives across
the border in Russia, which under a subterfuge was not technically
forbidden. But the ability to hide behind a technicality is a blessing
enjoyed especially in democracies. It did not go with the chief of
police, who came down for a squeeze which made it more profitable to
pay the women’s fare home than to continue to offend.
[Illustration: A WAYSIDE TEMPLE]
Associating with the native Mongol women is here precluded by the fact
that there are no settlements near by from which the Chinese might get
indigenous consolation. A deserted tract lies behind the town. Only
camel-drivers, wood-cutters, and sellers of cattle come into Maimachen,
and they leave at night. For though the Mongols, in their pointed hats,
pass along the streets, none may lawfully live within the stockaded
walls, and none keep shop beneath the carved eaves of the houses which
flank its narrow streets. This is the prerogative of Chinese traders
from beyond the far-off Wall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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