by rich dyed rocks, that do not break the expanse--till the whole
veil has disappeared; and, lo! the long lofty range, with its wavy
line, rising and sinking so softly in the blue serenity, perhaps,
of an almost cloudless sky. Yet though we have thus characterised
the mountains by what we have always felt to be the pervading spirit
of the region, chasms and ravines, and cliffs and precipices, are
there; in some places you see such assemblages as inspire the fear
that quakes at the heart, when suddenly struck in the solitude with
a sense of the sublime; and though we have called the mountains
green--and during Spring and Summer, in spite of frost or drought,
they are green as emerald--yet in Autumn they are many-coloured, and
are girdled with a glow of variegated light, that at sunset sometimes
seems like fire kindled in the woods.
The larger Vales are all serene and cheerful; and among the sylvan
knolls with which their wide levels, highly cultivated, are
interspersed, cottages, single or in groups, are frequent, of an
architecture always admirably suited to the scenery, because in a
style suggested not by taste or fancy, which so often disfigure
nature to produce the picturesque, but resorted to for sake of the
uses and conveniences of in-door life, to weather-fend it in storms,
and in calm to give it the enjoyment of sunshine. Many of these
dwellings are not what are properly called cottages, but statesmen’s
houses, of ample front, with their many roofs, over-shadowed by a
stately grove, and inhabited by the same race for many generations.
All alike have their suitable gardens, and the porches of the poorest
are often clustered with roses; for everywhere among these hills,
even in minds the most rude and uncultivated, there is a natural love
of flowers. The villages, though somewhat too much modernised in
those days of improvement--and indeed not a few of them with hardly
any remains now of their original architecture--nothing old about
them but the church tower, perhaps the parsonage--are nevertheless
generally of a pleasing character, and accordant, if not with the
great features of nature, which are unchanged and unchangeable, with
the increased cultivation of the country, and the many villas and
ornamented cottages that have risen and are rising by every lake and
river side. Rivers indeed, properly so called, there are none among
these mountains; but every vale, great and small, has at all times
its pure and undefiled stream or rivulet; every hill has its hundreds
of evanescent rills, almost every one its own perennial torrent
flowing from spring, marsh, or tarn; and the whole region is often
alive with waterfalls, of many of which, in its exquisite loveliness,
the scenery is fit for fairy festivals--and of many, in its horrid
gloom, for gatherings of gnomes revisiting “the glimpses of the
moon” from their subterraneous prisons. One lake there is, which
has been called “wooded Winandermere, the river lake;” and there is
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