It is in this way that we all become familiar with the Mountains. Far
more than we were aware of have we trusted to the strong spirit of
delight within us, to prompt and to guide. And in such a country as
the Highlands, thus led, we cannot err. Therefore, if your desire be
for the summits, set your face thitherwards, and wind a way of your
own, still ascending and ascending, along some vast brow, that seems
almost a whole day’s journey, and where it is lost from your sight,
not to end, but to go sweeping round, with undiminished grandeur,
into another region. You are not yet half-way up the mountain, but
you care not for the summit now; for you find yourself among a number
of green knolls--all of them sprinkled, and some of them crowned,
with trees--as large almost as our lowland hills--surrounded close
to the brink with the purple heather--and without impairing the
majesty of the immense expanse, embuing it with pastoral and sylvan
beauty;--and there, lying in a small forest glade of the lady-fern,
ambitious no longer of a throne on Benlomond or Bennevis, you dream
away the still hours till sunset, yet then have no reason to weep
that you have lost a day.
But the best way to view the mountains is to trace the Glens. To find
out the glens you must often scale the shoulders of mountains; and in
such journeys of discovery, you have for ever going on before your
eyes glorious transfigurations. Sometimes for a whole day one mighty
mass lowers before you unchanged; look at it after the interval of
hours, and still the giant is one and the same. It rules the region,
subjecting all other altitudes to its sway, though many of them
range away to a great distance; and at sunset retains its supremacy,
blazing almost like a volcano with fiery clouds. Your line of journey
lies, perhaps, some two thousand feet above the level of the sea,
and seldom dips down to one thousand; and these are the heights from
which all above and all below you look most magnificent, for both
regions have their full power over you--the unscaleable cliffs, the
unfathomable abysses--and you know not which is the more sublime. The
sublimity indeed is one. It is then that you may do well to ascend to
the very mountain top. For it may happen to be one of those heavenly
days indeed, when the whole Highlands seem to be reposing in the
cloudless sky.
But we were about to speak of the Glens. And some of them are best
entered by such descents as these--perhaps at their very head--where
all at once you are in another world, how still, how gloomy, how
profound! An hour ago and the eye of the eagle had not wider command
of earth, sea, and sky than yours--almost blinded now by the
superincumbent precipices that imprison you, and seem to shut you out
from life.
“Such the grim desolation, where Ben-Hun
And Craig-na-Torr, by earthquake shatterings
Disjoined with horrid chasms prerupt, enclose
What superstition calls the Glen of Ghosts.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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