Or you may enter some great glen from the foot, where it widens into
vale, or strath--and there are many such--and some into which you can
sail up an arm of the sea. For a while it partakes of the cultivated
beauty of the lowlands, and glen and vale seem almost one and the
same; but gradually it undergoes a strange wild change of character,
and in a few miles that similitude is lost. There is little or
no arable ground here; but the pasture is rich on the unenclosed
plain--and here and there are enclosures near the few houses or huts
standing, some of them in the middle of the glen, quite exposed, on
eminences above reach of the floods--some more happily placed on the
edge of the coppices, that sprinkle the steep sides of the hills,
yet barely mountains. But mountains they soon become; and leaving
behind you those few barren habitations, you see before you a wide
black moor. Beautiful hitherto had been the river, for a river you
had inclined to think it, long after it had narrowed into a stream,
with many a waterfall, and in one chasm a cataract. But the torrent
now has a wild mountain-cry, and though there is still beauty on its
banks, they are bare of all trees, now swelling into multitudes of
low green knolls among the heather, now composed but of heather and
rocks. Through the very middle of the black moor it flows, yet are
its waters clear, for all is not moss, and it seems to wind its way
where there is nothing to pollute its purity, or tame its lustre.
’Tis a solitary scene, but still sweet; the mountains are of great
magnitude, but they are not precipitous; vast herds of cattle are
browsing there, on heights from which fire has cleared the heather,
and wide ranges of greensward upon the lofty gloom seem to lie in
perpetual light.
The moor is crossed, and you prepare to scale the mountain in front,
for you imagine the torrent by your side flows from a tarn in yonder
cove, and forms that series of waterfalls. You have been all along
well pleased with the glen, and here at the head, though there is a
want of cliffs of the highest class, you feel nevertheless that it
has a character of grandeur. Looking westward, you are astounded to
see them ranging away on either side of another reach of the glen,
terrific in their height, but in their formation beautiful, for
like the walls of some vast temple they stand, roofed with sky. Yet
are they but as a portal or gateway of the glen. For entering in
with awe, that deepens as you advance almost into dread, you behold
beyond mountains that carry their cliffs up into the clouds, seamed
with chasms, and hollowed out into coves, where night dwells visibly
by the side of day; and still the glen seems winding on beneath a
purple light, that almost looks like gloom; such vast forms and such
prodigious colours, and such utter stillness, become oppressive
to your very life, and you wish that some human being were by, to
relieve by his mere presence the insupportable weight of such a
solitude.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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