The people of the place are well matched with its aspect and its
nature. No vulgarity, no coarseness, among them. The farming
population are grave in manner, and moral in speech and conduct, and
the seagoing population, consists, for the most part, of pilots, a
little band of Protestants, escaped from persecution. All around, too,
there is an honesty so primitive that locks and bolts are absolutely
unknown there. Noise and violence are utterly out of the question
among people who are modest and reserved, as seamen seldom are, and
who have a quiet and retiring tact not always to be found among a far
more pretentious and highly placed people. Though well known to and
well respected by them, I yet enjoyed all the solitude which study and
labor demanded. I was all the more interested in these people and
their perils. Without speaking to them, I daily and hourly watched
them in their heroic labors, and heartily wished them both safety and
success. I was suspicious of the weather, and looking upon the
dangerous channel, I often asked myself whether the sea, so long
gentle and lovely, would not, sooner or later, show us quite another
countenance.
This really dangerous place has nothing sad or threatening in its
aspect. Every morning, from my window, I could watch the white sails,
slightly ruddied by the morning beams, of quite a fleet of small
coasters, that only waited for a wind to leave the little port. At
this port, the Gironde is fully nine miles wide. With some of the
solemnity of the great rivers of America, it combines the gaiety of
Bourdeaux. Royan is a pleasure place, a bathing town which is resorted
to by all Gascony. Its bay, and the adjoining one of St. George, are
gratuitously regaled with the wild pranks of the porpoises, that
boldly venture into the river, and into the very midst of the bathers,
leaping, at once heavily and gracefully, six feet, and more, above the
surface of the water. It would seem that they are profoundly convinced
of the fact, that no one thereabout is addicted to fishing; that at
that point of great daring and great labor, where from hour to hour
all hands may be called upon to succor some imperilled vessel, folks
will scarcely care to slay the poor Porpoise, for his oil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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