To this gaiety of the waters, add the especially harmonious beauty of
the two shores, as the abounding vineyards of Medoc look across to the
varied culture of the fertile fields of Saintonge. The sky, here, has
not the fixed, and sometimes rather monotonous beauty of the
Mediterranean, but, on the contrary, is very changeable. From the
mingling waters of sea and river, rise variegated mists, which cast
back upon the watery mirror, strange gleamings of gorgeous coloring,
rod, blue, deepest orange, and most delicately pale green. Fantastic
shapes, "a moment seen, then gone for ever," "appearing only to
depart, and seen only to be regretted," adorn the entrance to the
Ocean with strange monuments of bold collonades, sublime bridges, and,
occasionally, triumphal arches.
The two crescent-shaped shores of Royan and Saint Georges, with their
fine sands afford to the most delicate feet a delightful promenade of
which one does not easily grow tired, tempted, and regaled as we are
by the perfume of the pines which so enliven the downs with their
young verdure. The fine promontories which overlook these shores, and
the sandy inland downs send near and far their healthful perfumes.
That which predominates on the downs has a something of medicinal, a
mingled odor, which seems to concentrate all the sun and the warmth of
the sands. The inland heaths furnish the more pungent odors which stir
the brain and cheer the heart; thyme, and wild thyme, and marjoram,
and sage which our fathers held sacred for its many virtues, and
peppermint, and, above all, the little wild violet, exhale a mingled
odor surpassing all the spicy odors of the far East.
It seems to me that on these heaths the birds sing more beautifully
than elsewhere. Never have I heard elsewhere such a lark as I listened
to in July on the promontory of Vallière, as she rose higher and
higher, her dark wings gilded and glinting in the rays of the fast
setting sun. Her notes coming from a height of probably a thousand
feet were as sweet as they must needs have been powerful. It was to
her humble nest, to her upward gazing and listening nestlings that she
evidently sang her "wood notes wild," her song at once so rustic and
so sublime, in which one might fancy that she translated into harmony
that glorious sunlight in which she hovered, and called to her
nestlings--"Come up hither my little ones, come!"
Out of all these, perfumes and song, soft air, and sea made mild by
the waters of the beautiful river, proceeded an infinitely agreeable,
though not very brilliant harmony. The moon shone with a softened
light, the stars were quite visible, but not very bright, and the
atmosphere so mild and pleasant, that it would have been voluptuous,
that whole scene and its accessories had there not mingled with all a
something, which made one reflect, and substituted active thought for
luxuriously idle reverie.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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