The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
While we were all stretching our necks to catch a glimpse of the
steamer, every moment expected to heave in sight, an officer gave
us the valuable hint that our tarantass could not be embarked at
Pasoilské, there being no boat there capable of conveying it to the
steamer. This was unwelcome intelligence to receive at the eleventh
hour, but it was confirmed by the post-master who, however, had told
us a different story the night before.
The "shipping port" was nine versts further south, and thither we
had to transport our carriage. It was off the government post-road,
and private horses had to be hired at rather an exorbitant rate.
But there was no time to lose, and the Russian had us on the hip,
an advantage which none know better how to turn to account. The
road runs along a narrow sand-spit between the Baikal and the inner
lagoons. It is very heavy, and the water has broken in on it in
some places. The sand-spit runs out to a point forming a sheltered
harbour inside for vessels of light draught. The entrance round
the point has a shoal sand-bar, somewhat dangerous, running across
it. Several Russian barges, rigged very much like Japanese junks,
with one enormous mast placed near the centre of the vessel, and of
about 150 tons burthen, lay aground discharging their cargoes on
the shore. Several more were lying at anchor in the harbour. These
vessels are of the rudest construction, and the most primitive
model--very short, enormously high-sided, and of great beam. They
have preposterously large rudders like the Chinese and Japanese
junks. Their "lines" are so imperfect that no ordinary rudder would
steer them. They must be incapable of any nautical movement except
running before the wind. They carry large crews, chiefly Bouriats.
Their heavy main-sail and rudder necessitates plenty of hands, and
when in harbour (where they seem to spend most of their time) the
large crew is useful in loading and discharging cargo.
When we consider the kind of craft, and the quality of their crews,
by which the Baikal has been navigated, it is easy to account
for the terrible stories of the storms that frequently spread
destruction over the surface of the lake. That the lake, like other
lakes similarly shut in by high mountains, is subject to sudden and
violent storms, fraught with danger to crazy barks and unskilful
navigators, there can be no doubt; but we had occasion to observe
that a very gentle zephyr indeed is accounted a storm on the
Baikal. It is said that a peculiar phenomenon is sometimes observed
in the lake,--a wave, or succession of waves, bubbling up from the
bottom in the calmest weather as if moved by submarine influences.
But it is not likely that this, or other anomalous convulsions in
the waters of the Baikal are of frequent occurrence. But, although
such phenomena have no doubt fortified the popular superstitious
dread with which the lake is regarded, it is of the wind-storms that
the Russian sailors and travellers are so apprehensive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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