John Bell--"Overland" routes--Peking a sealed book--Jesuits-- Opening of China--Chinese jealousy of Mongolia--Errors of British policy--Their results--Preparations for journey-- Leave Shanghae--Yang-tse-kiang-- Changes in its channel-- Elevation of the delta--Chinese records of inundations--The Nanzing--Shantung promontory in a fog--Chinese coasters-- Advantages of steam--Our fellow-passengers--Peiho river-- Intricate navigation--Sailors in China--Tientsin--New settlement--Municipal council--Improvements--Trade--Beggars-- Health--Sand-storms--Gambling 1 CHAPTER II. TIENTSIN TO PEKING. Modes of travelling--Carts, horses, boats--Filthy banks of the Peiho--Voyage to Tungchow--Our boat's crew--Chinese distances-- Traffic on the Peiho--Temple at Tungchow--Mercantile priests-- Ride to Peking--Millet--Eight-mile bridge--Resting place-- Tombs--Filial piety--Cemeteries--Old statues--Water communication into Peking--Grain supply 23 CHAPTER III. PEKING. Walls of Peking--Dust and dirt--Street obstructions--The model inn--Restaurant--Our boon companions--Peking customs--Rule of thumb--British legation--Confucian temple--Kienloong's pavilion--Lama temple--Mongol chants--Roman and Bhuddist analogies--Mongols and Chinese--Hospitality of lay brother-- Observatory--Street cries--Temple of Heaven--Theatres-- European residents--Medical mission under Dr. Lockhart-- Chinese jealousy of Mongolia--Russian diplomacy--Reckoning with our host--Ice--Paper-money 32 CHAPTER IV. PEKING TO CHAN-KIA-KOW. Return to Tungchow--Disappointment--Priest conciliated by Russian language--Back to Peking--Negotiations--Ma-foo's peculation--Chinese honesty and knavery--Loading the caravan--Mule-litters--Leave Peking--Sha-ho--Cotton plant-- Nankow--Crowded inn--Difficult pass--Inner "great wall"-- Cha-tow--Chinese Mahommedans--Religious toleration--Christians in disfavour--Change of scene--Hwai-lai--Ruins of bridge--Bed of old river--Road traffic--Watch-towers--Chi-ming-i--Legend of monastery--the Yang-ho--Pass--Shan-shui-pu--Coal-- Suen-wha-fu--Ride to Chan-kia-kow 56 CHAPTER V. CHAN-KIA-KOW.