Arrival at Chan-kia-kow--Focus of Trade--Mixed population-- Wealth--Mongols--Russians--Name of Kalgan--Chinese friends--Russian hospitality--Disappointment--Proposed excursion to Bain-tolochoi--Camels at last procured-- Noetzli returns to Tientsin--The pass--Mountains--Great Wall--The horse-fair--Dealers--Ox-carts--Transport of wood from Urga--Shoeing smiths--Our Russian host arrives--The "Samovar"--Tea-drinking in Russia--Change of temperature-- Elevation of Chan-kia-kow--Preparations for the desert-- Cabbages--Warm boots--Camels arrive--Leave Chan-kia-kow-- The pass--Superiority of mules, &c., over camels 72 CHAPTER VI. MONGOLIA. Leave China--Mishap in the pass--Steep ascent--Chinese perseverance--Agricultural invasion--Our first encampment-- Cold night--Pastoral scene--Introduction to the Mongols--The land of tents--Our conductors--Order of march--Mongol chants--The lama--Slow travelling--Pony "Dolonor"--Night travelling--Our Mongols' tent--Argols--Visitors--Mongol instinct--Camels quick feeders--Sport--Antelopes--Lame camels--Scant pastures--Endurance of Mongols--Disturbed sleep--Optical illusions--"Yourt," Mongol tent--Domestic arrangements--Etiquette--Mongol furniture--Sand-grouse-- Track-- Wind and rain--A wretched night--Comfortless encampment--Camels breaking down--The camel seasons--No population--No grass--Mingan 83 CHAPTER VII. MONGOLIA--_continued_. Visitors at Mingan--Trading--Scene with a drunken Mongol-- Good horsemen--Bad on foot--Knowledge of money--Runaway pony--A polite shepherd--Gunshandak--Wild onions--Halt-- Expert butcher--Mongol sheep, extraordinary tails--A Mongol feast--Effects of diet--Taste for fat explained--Mongol fasts--Our cooking arrangements--Camel ailings--Maggots-- Rough treatment--Ponies falling off--Live in hopes--Dogs-- The harvest moon--Waiting for Kitat--Lamas and their inhabitants--Resume the march--Meet caravan--Stony roads--Disturbed sleep--Gurush--Negotiations at Kutul-usu-- Salt plains--Sporting lama--Ulan-Khada--Trees--Reach Tsagan-tuguruk--Lamas and black men--Small temple--Musical failure--Our new acquaintances--Horse-dealing--Greed of Mongols--Fond of drink--A theft--The incantation--Kitat returns--Camel lost--Vexatious delay--Start from Tsagan-tuguruk 102 CHAPTER VIII. MONGOLIA--_continued_.