The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
Having made all necessary arrangements for resuming our journey, and
armed ourselves with a pass from the Director-General of Posts for
Western Siberia, we started on the 5th November in a post kibitka,
with the intention of buying a sledge when we found an opportunity,
and snow enough to use it. It was late in the afternoon before we
got away from Tomsk, and dark before we emerged from the thick
wood into which we plunged on leaving the town. The post-station
had been at a village eighteen versts from Tomsk, but on arriving
there we learned that it had been removed that very day to a place
more convenient for crossing the river Tom, or on the other side
of the Tom, for it was hard to deduce any positive conclusion from
the various and partially contradictory statements we heard. At all
events, be the new station where it might, our yemschiks refused
to drive us any further than the old station in the village. To
be cast adrift with our baggage in a village where no accredited
officer of the government was located, would have consigned us to
unknown troubles. We refused, therefore, to let the yemschiks go,
but insisted on their proceeding to the next station, wherever it
might be. The assistance of the starust, or village elder, was
invoked, and he, with a few peasants, piloted us at our request to
the river Tom, that we might examine for ourselves the state of
the crossing. The ice was good, and apparently strong enough to
bear the carriages, but the yemschiks lapsed into a state of mulish
obstinacy, and refused to stir. The starust and his satellites,
all speaking at once, held forth vigorously on general topics for
the edification of the company, and went to bed. As for us, we had
simply to keep possession of the carriages, and leave the rest to
time. The yemschiks would get hungry, the horses would certainly
have to be fed, and we might hope that when they got tired of
waiting they would go on. With this idea we committed ourselves
to rest in the kibitka. It was sadly deficient in comfort, as
compared with our old tarantass. The kibitka is open in front,
and rather over-ventilated everywhere. Cold kept sleep from our
eyes for a time, while our ears were regaled with spasmodic bursts
of indignation from the yemschiks, who now threatened to take
us back to Tomsk, bag and baggage. To these attacks we offered
nothing but passive resistance, and even the yemschiks wearied of
a discussion so entirely one-sided. We were lulled to sleep in
time by the chanting of some wild native airs by a Russian family
in a neighbouring house. Their songs, many of them very sweet,
are mostly, if not all, of the plaintive order. A drunken "brute
of a husband," whom his poor wife was trying to decoy homewards,
was the only incident that broke in upon the dead stillness of
the night scene in the village of Kaltarskaya. There stood our
wearied horses in the street that livelong night, bearing their
sufferings from cold and hunger with resignation. How the yemschiks
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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