The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
bestowed themselves during the night I know not. One at least must
have kept awake to watch the horses. As morning approached the
cold proved too much for my somnolence, and I was fain to turn out
and grope my way into the house that had until the previous day
been the post-station. On getting the door of a room open, the
warm, fulsome exhalations of closely pent-up human beings that
greeted the nostrils were enough to have produced a revolution in a
sensitive stomach. The hard breathing of some, and the more sonorous
articulations of others, enabled me to ascertain the positions of
the heads of most of the sleepers, but still with every care I came
into collision with sundry legs and trunks in my voyage across the
floor in quest of a clear space where I might stretch myself. At
length I discovered an unoccupied bench or table, and yielded to
the luxury of sleep till daylight. When I again opened my eyes,
my night companions had begun to stir about. Some were engaged in
their toilet, which consists in stretching legs and arms, yawning
a little, shaking up their clothes, and tightening the scarf which
forms their girdle. By stooping low on entering the room I had
escaped a broken head from a false ceiling which was used as a
sleeping bunk. This is a common arrangement in post-houses, where
the family of the post-master and all the yemschiks and hangers-on
of the establishment are often jumbled up together, some climbing
up to the top of the brick stove to sleep, and others lying on the
boarded floor or ceiling which overhangs part of the room like a
hay-loft. The Russian houses generally are built on traditional
principles, the first thing aimed at being the exclusion of _air_,
and consequently cold. They always feel warm, the temperature during
the day being kept up to a pretty uniform scale by the large stoves.
At night the fires go out, but the house retains its heat until
about daylight in the morning, when it begins to feel a little
chilly. There is scarcely one perfectly level floor in the country,
and many of the houses, especially the old ones, are tipped up at
one end so that the line of the roof makes a very wide angle with
the level ground. Some indeed tumble over altogether, where the
owners are too poor or too indifferent to take them down before they
progress so far towards demolition. This phenomenon is not caused
by the sinking of one end from the timbers rotting in the ground,
but by the action of frost in the earth, which, unless the uprights
are sunk deep enough, expands with cold so much as to heave up the
foundations of the houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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