African Americans; United States -- Race relations
I chose Olmsted as my model. In 1853 Olmsted made a famous journey
through the seaboard States, holding up his mirror to the life of
the South in slavery days. The book which records his impressions
and reflections is one of the most valuable in American literature.
This great student of nature went methodically through Virginia, the
Carolinas and Georgia, Alabama and Louisiana. A pilgrimage not unlike
his has to be repeated to-day to ascertain how the ex-slave is, what
he is doing, how the experiment of his liberation has prospered, and
what is his future in the American Commonwealth. But as America is
so much more developed in 1920, and more problematical in the varied
fields of her national life, it has been necessary to make a broader,
if more rapid, survey of the whole South. I made the following journey
in America: I went slowly south from New York to Trenton, Philadelphia,
Baltimore, and Washington, staying some days at each and seeing America
grow darker as it visibly does when you watch faces from trolley car
windows going from town to town southward. I was on South Street, in
Philadelphia; watched the well-paid artisans and laborers at the docks
of Baltimore, visited there the polite homes of the colored working
class, cleaner, richer, cozier than that of the average British workman
on Tyneside or London Docks. I climbed the Lincoln Heights to talk to
Nanny Burroughs and see her good training college for colored women
there; was at Howard University and talked with black and gentle
Professor Miller and with the pale and intellectual Emmett Scott. I
sailed down the Potomac to Norfolk, Virginia, Uncle Sam’s great naval
base, going to be the greatest of its kind in the world; crossed to
Newport News and talked with black rivetters and chippers and others in
the shipbuilding yards; then, following the way of the first English
colonists and also the first Negro slaves, went up the James River to
Jamestown, and on to Richmond, the fine capital of the Old Dominion. I
traveled to Lynchburg and its tobacco industries, went from thence to
“sober” Knoxville, investigating the race riot there and the attitude
of Tennessee. From Knoxville I went to Chattanooga and Birmingham,
in each of which great steel centers I met the leading Negroes and
investigated conditions. I was at Atlanta, and walked across Georgia
to the sea, following Sherman. A three-hundred-mile walk through the
cotton fields and forests of Georgia was necessary in order to get a
broad section of the mass of the people. The impression left behind
by Sherman’s army which laid waste the country and freed all the
Negroes there gave also something of the historical atmosphere of the
South. From Savannah, which was the point on the sea to which General
Sherman attained, I went to Brunswick and Jacksonville, thence to
Pensacola, and on from Florida to New Orleans and the Gulf plantations.
I journeyed up the Mississippi on a river steamer, stayed at the Negro
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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