The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
The most frequented baths are at Wansage on the River Gumara,
which flows into Lake Tsana. Dr. Stecker visited the spot in 1881,
and wrote the following brief account of it,[35] which throws a
light on Abyssinian social customs: “The hot spring issues from
the left bank of the river and rises to a height of two or three
metres from the ground. It fills a basin constructed by King Theodore
with water of a temperature of 37° C. A hut has been built over the
basin”—as at the spring which I saw—“and the Abyssinians who
are trying the ‘cure’ here sport in the water all day long. In
arrangements these baths resemble Ostend and Trouville in miniature,
seeing that women and men, youths and girls, spend their time in
the bath in lively promiscuity and keep up an intercourse that
is not always decorous. Quarrels often arise among the ‘cure’
patients, especially when some one has used the baths longer than
is permitted to him. Thus from early till late one hears the loud
tones of the brawlers and the lamentations of women and children,
who often come in for a beating on these occasions.”
On January 5 our road lay at first beside the River Geerar, which is
the main source of the Rahad. Presently it diverged from the bank,
and the track, which lay over stiff hills, became worse. At some
points the donkeys could not pass, and we had to lift them bodily,
loads and all, over obstructions, or push them past the rocks between
which their loads were jammed. Once the animal that was carrying
Dupuis’ valise and Gladstone bag, half slipped into a steep ravine
with water at the bottom, forty feet below. In another place I saw an
unlucky little beast turn two complete somersaults while it tried to
scramble down a sloping ledge of rock. To my horror I caught sight
of my medical bag on the top of its burden. I rushed up, and helped
to unload the donkey, which seemed none the worse for the fall,
and, to my astonishment and relief, I found all my doctor’s gear
intact. Even the tabloid bottles, with a precious stock of quinine
and phenacetine in them, had escaped by a miracle.
In crossing and recrossing the river-bed I was able to note the height
to which the floods rise in the water-courses. I saw that flotsam,
such as wisps of straw and bits of wood, had been lodged in branches
and twigs at least twelve feet above the bed of the stream, and this,
in the upper reaches among the hills, has a width of twenty-five to
thirty feet on an average.
We camped at the foot of the mountain-side which would give us our
final climb to the lake-plateau. Johannes pointed out the route to
me, and I thought that one would have as much chance of shoving a
donkey up the Great Pyramid as up that sheer precipice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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