The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
Presently our convoy, which in extended order covered nearly a mile
and a half, debouched upon the valley of the river Geerar.[34] The
bed, which is of bare rock, was dry when we passed through it. I
saw here many basins neatly excavated in a curious fashion. They
varied in size, but at the bottom of each was a stone. Evidently,
this had first been lodged during the time of flood in some small
hollow in the water-course. There, being constantly driven round
by the eddying water, it had worn a deeper and deeper hole, at the
bottom of which it rested in the dry season. We followed the course
of the river up stream for about five miles.
The valleys on either side are sharply cut ravines in the
mountain-sides. They were covered with grass at that period of
the year.
We lunched in the shade of the river bank, and afterwards visited
some hot springs which were near at hand. The first was a runnel of
clear water guided from its source in the rock to a pool by a wooden
gutter. I put my hand under this, and judged that the temperature
was well over 150° F. At a little distance we found another spring
which, welling from the ground, filled a basin about forty feet in
circumference and one foot deep. Here, too, the temperature of the
water was high, but not so high as to prevent bathing, and a roof of
thatch had been built over the pool. We saw several Habashes, men,
women, and children, who inhabited some rough, small thatched huts
which had been put up close by. Some were old dwellings, some newly
constructed. I could not ascertain whether these people resorted to
the springs for a “cure” or merely formed a settlement established
by keepers in charge of the place. Apparently all belonged to one
family. I visited their camping-ground, but when I approached the
women and children bolted into one of the huts. Perhaps they had
not seen a European before and did not consider the first example
prepossessing; or they may still have supposed—as most Abyssinians
at one time did—that all persons who came from that continent
were Turks. In the latter case I excuse their timidity. They watched
me through the thatched walls of the hovel just as a rat sometimes
watches a suspect from the entrance of its hole.
The water, as far as I could judge, was pure. It was tasteless,
and very “soft,” as I found by using it in my bath. No steam
was visible at the springs, though before I left them—about four
in the afternoon—the air was becoming cool. Some large trees grew
near the pool, and I saw a big and fine monkey with a shaggy face
and a growth of fluffy white hair on its tail leaping and squatting
among the boughs.
There are many hot springs in Abyssinia, and they are highly
valued by the natives for the medicinal qualities attributed to
them. Probably in some places the virtue of the waters is real,
in others merely reputed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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