The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
The actual coast, for the six miles between Lyme Regis and Seaton is
a roadless, and in parts an almost trackless, stretch of strenuous
clambering among rocks and tangled thickets; among landslips old and new,
and undercliffs overgrown with such a wilderness of trees and shrubs
and bracken, and blackberry brakes as only Devon can produce. But for
all these difficulties, perhaps because of them, the way is preferable
to the hard high road that goes, a little way inland. Here, at least,
“exploration” is no straining after effect, no misuse of the word.
When you have left the Cobb at Lyme Regis behind and passed the
coastguard station, you have come to sheer wildness; the deserted cement
works, standing amid a waste of wrecked earthy cliffs, themselves
forming a not inappropriate prelude to the perfect abandonment of nature.
Here the low promontory of Devonshire Point ends the Ware Cliffs; and
the tangle, with the gaping fissures between the rock and earth half
hidden by grass and bushes, becomes so nearly impenetrable as to render a
retreat up along the boulders into Holmbush Fields absolutely necessary;
Holmbush Fields, with their rustic stiles and hedgerow timber, and the
winding footpath across, giving a sober and graceful interlude; and then
you come upon a mile or so of wonderful pathway, roughly shaped amid the
wild jungle that here has overgrown a tract of oozy and boggy undercliff,
formed by a century or more of continual landslides. There surely is no
more beautiful wilderness of the particular type in England, than this:
a very great deal of its beauty being due to the happy circumstance that
neither Lyme Regis nor Seaton are as yet large enough to admit of it
being overrun. Hardy pioneers have beaten out the devious pathway, and
the few who have followed in their footsteps have kept it from being
again overgrown. Spring—the month of May—is the ideal time for this part
of the coast; when the birds have again wakened to song, and the young
foliage is tender and the landsprings have not been dried up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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