The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
As is the case in most Belgian cities, the street from the station to
the heart of the town, although continuous and straight, changes its
name more than once. At the outset it is the rue Conscience, then the
rue d'Egmont, and from the bridge across the Dyle to the Grande Place
it is named Bruul. Entering the Place from this side we paused to
admire the tremendous tower of the cathedral which here burst upon us
in all its majestic grandeur, although the edifice is situated a
little to the west of the Place itself. In front of us, on the right,
was a singularly dilapidated ruin, which we learned was the old Cloth
Hall. Part of it is used as a police station, part is vacant with its
window openings devoid of sashes or glass staring blankly at the sky,
while part is devoted to housing a small museum of municipal
antiquities. The first Cloth Hall at Malines was destroyed by fire in
1342, and the new one that was begun to replace it was never finished,
owing to the ruin of the cloth industry during the struggles between
the artisans and their overlords, and a belfry which it was proposed
to erect similar to that at Bruges was never begun. The museum
contains a number of pictures by Malines artists, of historical rather
than artistic interest, a "Christ on the Cross," by Rubens, and a
variety of relics of the city's famous past. Curiously enough, there
is not a single piece of lace in the collection, nor anything to
represent the great cloth weaving industry--the two branches of
manufacture to which the city owes so much of its former wealth and
fame.
Adjoining the _Halle aux Draps_ to the north is a fine modern
post-office built from designs drawn by the great Malines architect of
the sixteenth century, Rombaut Keldermans, for a new Hotel de Ville,
which was never built. Unfortunately its principal façade overlooks
the narrow rue de Beffer instead of the Grande Place, and its
beautiful details cannot be seen as effectively as could be desired.
In the Vieux Palais, the ancient "Schepenhuis," or house of the
bailiffs, situated a little south of the Place, we were shown the
original design by Keldermans. It is kept in a sliding panel on the
wall and, although somewhat dim with age, can still be studied in
detail. The modern architects of the post-office have reverently
followed the plans of the great master so that at least this one of
his many brilliant architectural dreams has come true, and now stands
carved in imperishable stone just as his genius conceived it nearly
four centuries ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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