The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris — John Shaqi
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
"That brings back memories." Rosanette does not know exactly what they
are. But her formula translates--and with what sincerity!--the charm
of old châteaux and old gardens about which floats the odor of past
centuries. She "yawns immoderately" while breathing this vague
perfume, because she is unfamiliar with literature. Nevertheless,
she instinctively feels and respects the melancholy and distinguished
reveries of those who know the history of France. And besides, if these
latter in their turn desired to express the pleasure which they feel in
visiting historic places, I would defy them to find any other words than
those which Rosanette herself uses.
This pleasure is one of the most lively which can be felt by a loiterer
who loves the past, but whose listless imagination requires, to set
it in motion, the vision of old architecture and the suggestion
of landscapes. It is also one of those which can most easily be
experienced. The soil of France is so impregnated with history!
Everywhere, "that brings back memories."
It is, therefore, to seek "memories" that I visited Maintenon and its
park on a clear and limpid October afternoon. I had previously read once
more the correspondence of Madame de Maintenon and run through a few
letters of Madame de Sévigné. My memory is somewhat less untrained than
that of Rosanette. But, nevertheless, I am startled, on the day when I
wish to learn again, to perceive how many things I have unlearned, if I
ever knew them.
*****
The Chateau of Maintenon dates from the sixteenth century. Since then
it has been continued and enlarged without rigorous following of the
original plan. It is built of stone and brick, worked and chiseled
like the jewels of the French Renaissance. Its two unsymmetrical wings
terminate, the one in a great donjon of stone, the other in a round
tower of brick. Some parts have been restored, others have preserved
their aspect of ancientness.... But here, as everywhere else, time has
performed its harmonizing work, and what the centuries have not yet
finished, the soft October light succeeds in completing. Diversity
of styles, discordances between different parts of the construction,
bizarre and broken lines traced against the sky by the inequalities of
the roofs, the turrets, the towers and the donjon, neither disconcert
nor shock us. All these things fuse into a robust and elegant whole. The
very contrasts, born of chance, appear like the premeditated fancy of an
artist who conceived a work at once imposing and graceful. The artist is
the autumn sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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