The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris — John Shaqi
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
Before the chateau extends a great park which also offers singular
contrasts. Near the building are stiff parterres in the French style.
Beyond, a long canal, straight and narrow, between two grassy banks,
is pure Le Nôtre. But, on both sides of the canal, these stiff designs
disappear and are replaced by vast meadows, fat and humid, sown with
admirable clumps of trees; Le Nôtre never passed here. Nature and
the seventeenth century are now reconciled, and the park of Maintenon
presents that seductiveness common to so many old French parks which are
ennobled by their majestic remnants of the art of Versailles.
Its unusual beauty springs from the ruined aqueduct which crosses its
whole width. These immense arcades, half crumbled to ruin, clothed with
ivy and Virginia creeper, give a solemn melancholy to the spot. They
are the remains of the aqueduct which Louis XIV started to construct, to
bring to Versailles the waters of the Eure, a gigantic enterprise which
was one of the most disastrous of his reign. The gangs employed in this
work were decimated by terrible epidemics caused by the effluvia of the
broken soil. It is said that ten thousand men there met their death and
fifty million francs were wasted. War in 1688 interrupted these works,
"which," says Saint-Simon, "have not since been resumed; there remain of
them only shapeless monuments which will make eternal the memory of this
cruel folly." And, in 1687, Racine, visiting at Maintenon, described
to Boileau these arcades as "built for eternity!" In the eighteenth
century, the architects who were commissioned to construct the château
of Crécy for Madame de Pompadour came to seek materials in the ancient
domain of Madame de Maintenon.... These different memories are an
excellent theme for meditation upon the banks of the grand canal,
in whose motionless waters is reflected this prodigious romantic
decoration.
Within the château, we are allowed to visit the oratory, in which are
collected some elegant wood carvings of the sixteenth century; the
king's chamber, which contains some paintings of the seventeenth
century; a charming portrait of Madame de Maintenon in her youth and
another of Madame de Thianges, the sister of Madame de Montespan; and
lastly, the apartment of Madame de Maintenon.
What is called the apartment of Madame de Maintenon consists of two
narrow chambers, containing furniture of the seventeenth century; I
know not if these are originals or copies. Two portraits attract our
attention, one of Madame de Maintenon, the other of Charles X.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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