The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
souvenirs are exquisite; and one says to one's self in sauntering about
Senlis that, even without the assistance of the treatment recommended by
Jean de Jandun, the silent and antique grace of the little town would be
sufficient to inspire in old neurasthenics "the regulated habitude of a
tranquil life and a simplicity of the dove...."
The promenade is charming. But neither the picturesqueness of the
streets, nor the beauty of the houses, nor the piquancy of the old
names, nor even the words of Jean de Jandun are worth as much as the
picture which here strike the glance at every turn: the spire, always
the spire of Notre Dame. It appears suddenly between two gables. It
projects above the old brownish tile roofs. Above the flower-covered
walls of the gardens it is framed between clumps of lilac and
horse-chestnut. It overlooks the houses, it dominates the parks. The
poor tower of Saint Peter, with its disgraceful lantern, sometimes
accompanies it at a distance, as if to make barbarians better appreciate
the grandeur and the slenderness of Notre Dame's incomparable spire.
Senlis has preserved the ruins of its royal château. It is a place which
abounds in memories, for a great number of the kings of France, from
the Carlovingians to Henri IV, came here to visit for a season. Even its
ruins are not without interest. They rest upon the Roman wall, which
has remained intact at this spot, and we find there a fireplace of the
thirteenth century, towers, casements.... But how completely indifferent
all this archaeology leaves us when we behold the spire of the cathedral
emerging from the greenery of the garden! The great trees conceal all
the rest of the church. We see only, mounting into the full heaven, the
golden pyramid, still finer and more aspiring in the midst of all these
spring greeneries. A mysterious harmony exists between the youthful
boldness, the robust lightness of the human work, and the triumphant
freshness of the new vegetation. Besides, the monuments of Gothic art
are as marvelously suited to intimacy with nature as to familiarity with
life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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