The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
This familiarity, which has so often been destroyed by foolishly
clearing away the surroundings of cathedrals, proves its value to us at
Senlis on the Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame. This is a rectangular space,
where grass grows between the paving stones. The façade of the church is
framed by two rows of noble chestnuts. Behind a venerable wall rise the
turret and the gable of a fifteenth-century house. One might suppose it
to be the deserted and well-kept courtyard of a Flemish _béguinage_.
In this ancient frame, in the midst of this solitude, the cathedral
preserves all its youth. Here there is a perfect unison between the
building and its surroundings. Not only are the trees, the walls, the
houses, in harmony with the architecture, but this architecture itself
remains alive, because its proportions have not been falsified. The
dimensions of the square are exactly those which are needed in order
that our eye may be able to discover in their beauty of propinquity the
portal, the unfinished tower and the spire. All this is so perfect that
its grace is eternal.
This cathedral of Senlis would be an incomparable edifice even if it did
not possess its sublime spire.
The western portal is one of the most beautiful works of mediaeval
sculpture. On the two sides of the porch, as on the northern door of
Chartres, are arranged the kings and the prophets who foreshadowed the
Saviour in the Old Testament. Vandals have mutilated these statues in
olden times. In the nineteenth century other savages have restored them
and have put in the place of the broken heads masterpieces of bad taste
and silliness. Happily these malefactors have spared the rest of
the sculptures; they have touched neither the ruins of the charming
calendar, whose popular scenes unfold themselves above the kings and the
prophets, nor the marvelous statuettes, still almost intact, which adorn
the voussoirs of the portal, nor the bas-reliefs of the tympan where
angels huddle about the dead Virgin, that some may carry to heaven her
body and others her soul. As to the _Coronation of the Virgin_, which
occupies the upper part of the tympan, it also has been respected alike
by iconoclasts and by restorers. Of all the images of the Mother of God
which the sculpture of the thirteenth century has left us, I know none
more moving than this Virgin of Senlis. She is a peasant girl, a simple
country maid, with heavy features, and resignation in her face; her
unaccustomed hands can scarcely hold the scepter and the book; she is
ready for all dolors and for all beatitudes, extenuated by miracles,
harassed by maternity, still and always _ancilla Domini_, even in the
midst of the glories of the coronation and of the splendors of Paradise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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