The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
This way of traversing the highroads of France has, I admit, its
inconveniences, the most serious of which is the necessity of
incessantly watching the map to guide the chauffeur at every fork. The
signboard always appears too late, when the machine has already made
the wrong turn. The speed of the auto is such that it is not possible to
study the map and to enjoy the view at the same time. It is necessary
to choose. The wisest plan is to make up your mind to miss the road
occasionally. The mistake is so quickly corrected!
I also recognize that traveling in an auto will never replace the slow
promenade, in which one stopped at every turn of the route, amused by
people and by things. But it has the great advantage of annihilating
distance, of bringing sites and monuments close to one another, of
permitting rapid comparisons without any effort of memory, and of
revealing the general characteristics of a whole region. It suits
synthetic minds. It repels a little those who have the passion of
analysis. In short it makes us acquainted with the forest, but leaves us
ignorant of the beauty of the trees....
*****
From Paris to Chantilly there is at first the monotonous plateau which
separates the valley of the Marne from that of the Oise. In this gently
rolling plain the villages are numerous, and everywhere, overlooking
the housetops, rise the pointed or saddle-roofed spires of old belfries.
There is not a hamlet of the Ile-de-France which does not possess a
precious and exquisite church. It is here, on the soil of the royal
domain, that the soul of France was formed. It is here that its national
art was born.
We will stop, as the luck of the road wills.
Louvres formerly possessed two churches: one of them has disappeared and
of it there remains only a fine Romanesque belfry; in the other, which
shows the somewhat absurd elegance of the fifteenth century, we see a
frieze of vine leaves running all around the wall. And behold, at the
very first stop, in this petty village, a charming résumé of the whole
of French art; a robust Romanesque tower, finished in the first period
of pointed Gothic and, beside the gray belfry, the excessive and
delightful luxury of flamboyant Gothic. A league farther on, the church
of Marly-la-Ville offers a perfect example of the art of the thirteenth
century; with its little flying buttresses and its low triforium, one
might say that it was the tiny model for a great cathedral. By the side
of the road, a poor half-ruined shed, with a broken roof, a hollowed
pavement and moldy walls, is the church of Fosses; in its misery and its
degradation, the humble nave of the twelfth century still preserves some
remnants of its pure beauty....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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