Behind the papal throne are medallions of the friend and patron of
St. Francis, Gregory IX, and of Innocent IV, who consecrated the
Basilica. The frescoes represent the life of the Virgin, but they are
all too faded to be enjoyed, save that of the Coronation on the right
wall, just above the choir stalls; the Virgin is seated upon a wooden
throne with Christ by her side and a group of apostles and spectators
beneath. There is a striking resemblance in the drawing and form of
the standing figures to those in the Crucifixion of the south
transept. This, though very ruined and blackened in parts, showing no
other trace of colour than a faint film of golden yellow, has still
the power to make us feel that once, long ago, it was a fine work,
worthy of a great master. Weeping angels fly above the Cross, some
with outstretched hands, while others veil their eyes from the sight
of the suffering Saviour; the Magdalen, her arms thrown up above her
head, is seen in strong relief against the sky, and contrasting with
this dramatic gesture, is the figure of the Virgin, erect and still,
her hand clasped in that of St. John. The whole conception is
dignified, replete with dramatic feeling of the nobler kind, and has
been thought worthy, by Herr Thode, to be put down as the finest of
Cimabue's creations.
The remaining frescoes deal with scenes from the Apocalypse, but they
are so ruined that it is a thankless task for any, except the student,
to try and distinguish each separately. Indeed after a minute
examination of so many ruined works of art, a certain sadness and
weariness is felt, but if the pilgrim has time to rest awhile in a
quiet corner of the stalls and look at choir and transepts solely for
their colour, he will gain for himself many beautiful memories not
easily forgotten. It is a vision of youthful saints, of men with
lances hurrying down a rocky mountain side, of angels trumpeting to
the four ends of the earth, and out of this medley of shadowy forms
in fading frescoes, like sunlight breaking through a mist with golden
light, loom the mighty angels of Cimabue. Their heads are crowned by a
heavy mass of auburn hair, their wings slightly lifted, as though they
were on earth but for a short space, and they seem as remote from
mortals as the Sphynx herself in their dignity and calm repose. To
Cimabue belongs the conception of such grave and strangely beautiful
creations, winged messengers of strength, who come midway between the
stiff Byzantine figures, and the swift-moving angels of Giotto and the
cherub children forms of later Umbrian and Venetian schools.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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