The Stranger's Handbook to Chester and Its Environs: Containing a short sketch of its history and antiquities, a descriptive walk round the walls, and a visit to the cathedral, castle, and Eaton Hall. — John Shaqi
The Stranger's Handbook to Chester and Its Environs: Containing a short sketch of its history and antiquities, a descriptive walk round the walls, and a visit to the cathedral, castle, and Eaton Hall.Hughes, Thomas
History
The Stranger's Handbook to Chester and Its Environs: Containing a short sketch of its history and antiquities, a descriptive walk round the walls, and a visit to the cathedral, castle, and Eaton Hall.
Hughes, Thomas
Chester (England) -- Guidebooks
The steps we have just ascended give us but poor “first impressions” of
the Walls, the view being blocked up on either side by most unpicturesque
buildings. But when we have proceeded northward a few steps, a prospect
of venerable magnificence suddenly reveals itself. To our left, and so
close that we can hear the organ pealing forth its joyous hallelujahs, we
have a splendid view of the CATHEDRAL of St. Werburgh, seen here,
perhaps, to greater advantage than from any other accessible point. The
first glance will show us that it is a cruciform structure, as most of
our cathedrals are, the massive and weather-beaten tower standing just in
the centre compartment of the cross. The left wing, though an integral
portion of the building, is, nevertheless, a separate parish church,
dedicated to ST. OSWALD. The choir itself occupies the entire range of
the edifice between us and the tower, the _Chapel of Our Ladye_ being in
the immediate foreground. At our feet lie numberless memorials of the
dead, which—
With uncouth rhymes and shapeless sculpture deck’d,
Implore the passing tribute of a sigh.
This ground has served for a place of sepulture almost since the
Conquest, and has only recently been closed by act of parliament.
Deferring our special notice of the Cathedral, until “a more convenient
season,” we shortly find ourselves at the end of Abbey Street, and
immediately over the KALEYARDS GATE. This postern leads to the cabbage
and kale gardens, which formerly belonged to the Abbot and Convent of St.
Werburgh. The opening was permitted to be made for their convenience in
the reign of Edward I. to prevent the necessity of bringing their
vegetables by a circuitous route through the East Gate. The “good
things” in vogue among these reverend fathers were not, it is evident,
wholly spiritual. A defunct ropery, timberyard, and infant school now
flourish on the spot where monkish cabbages and conventual kale in old
time grew.
A few paces farther on was a quadrangular abutment, on which formerly
stood a tower called _The Sadlers’ Tower_, from its having been the
meeting-room of the Company of Sadlers. This tower was taken down in
1780; and the abutment, which marked the place where it stood, was
demolished in 1828.
We are now at an interesting portion of the Walls. Do you see that
mouldering old turret some fifty yards a-head of us? Three hundred years
ago it was familiarly known as Newton’s Tower; but the men of the present
day call it the PHŒNIX TOWER, from the figure of the phœnix, which is the
crest of one of the city companies, ornamenting the front of the
structure. Look up, as we approach it, and read, over its elevated
portal, the startling announcement, that
KING CHARLES
STOOD ON THIS TOWER
SEPTEMBER 24th, 1645, AND SAW
HIS ARMY DEFEATED
ON ROWTON MOOR.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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