The Stranger's Handbook to Chester and Its Environs: Containing a short sketch of its history and antiquities, a descriptive walk round the walls, and a visit to the cathedral, castle, and Eaton Hall.Hughes, Thomas
History
The Stranger's Handbook to Chester and Its Environs: Containing a short sketch of its history and antiquities, a descriptive walk round the walls, and a visit to the cathedral, castle, and Eaton Hall.
Hughes, Thomas
Chester (England) -- Guidebooks
Let us mount the rugged steps, and having reached the summit, gaze awhile
on the beautiful scene before us.
[Picture: Phœnix Tower, from the Canal]
To our left is the suburb of Newtown, a creation of the present
century,—the modest little spire of Christ Church pointing to the
thoughtful wayfarer another and a better world. Yonder, just visible
above the intervening buildings, the noble façade of the Railway Station
arrests the eye. Farther to the right, the Lead Works’ Shot Tower again
presents itself; while beneath us, at a depth of about forty feet, the
sleepy Canal flows languidly along, scarce a ripple distracting its
glassy surface. The bridge that crosses it is Cowlane Bridge, whence we
obtained the first glimpse of the Cathedral, _en route_ from the station.
Just over the canal is the new CATTLE MARKET, the Cestrian
Smithfield,—translated hither from Northgate Street in 1849. That
heavy-looking building just over the Bridge is the Independent Chapel in
Queen Street; while full south, the lofty steeple and church of St. John
“lend enchantment to the view.” Beyond all these, some ten or a dozen
miles away, the rocky heights of Beeston salute the eye, capped with the
ruins of a Castle, built by Earl Randle Blundeville,—a fortress which was
several times taken and retaken by the Royalists and Roundheads in the
great Civil War. To the right again, the stately form of the fine old
Cathedral, like a nursing mother, watches peacefully o’er the city. THE
WALLS beneath us are full of interest to the archæologist, for through
almost their entire length between this Tower and the Eastgate, the old
Roman masonry may yet be distinguished, forming the lower courses nearest
the foundations.
As we once more look up, and read yon quaint yet melancholy inscription,
our minds will of necessity revert back to that sad September day, when
Charles the First stood on this very spot and saw his gallant cavaliers
borne down by the grim soldiers of Oliver Cromwell’s army. For three
years he had maintained a doubtful contest with his Parliament; and
though for a time the successes of his troops in the western counties had
given a fitful gleam of prosperity to his sinking fortunes, the tide had
now turned, and one disaster followed another in quick succession. On
the fields of Naseby and Marston Moor he had been signally defeated.
Bristol had fallen; Prince Rupert had been disgraced and sent beyond the
seas; and the prospect daily grew darker. Chester remained firm; and
hither Charles had come to encourage his loyal subjects, and give to the
battle which seemed inevitable, the cheering influence of his kingly
presence. The city had been besieged for some months, and the houses in
the suburbs were mostly destroyed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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