[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BARCELONA. FROM A DRAWING BY THE AUTHOR.] THE SUNNY SOUTH. AN AUTUMN IN SPAIN AND MAJORCA. [Illustration: The Dragonera Rock, Majorca. From a Drawing by the Author.] BY CAPTAIN J. W. CLAYTON, F.R.G.S., LATE 13TH HUSSARS. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1869. _The Right of Translation is reserved._ [Illustration: [++] Decorative Image] THE SUNNY SOUTH. [Illustration: [++] Decorative Image] [Illustration: [++] Decorative Image] I INSCRIBE THIS BOOK TO ISABEL AND HAROLD, IN THE HOPE THAT THESE PASSAGES IN THE TRAVEL-LIFE OF THEIR FATHER MAY BE SOME DAY NOT WITHOUT INTEREST TO THEM. [Illustration: [++] Decorative Image] [Illustration: [++] Decorative Image] CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRÂCE.--ROUEN.--THE CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST CATHERINE.--THE SEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON 1 CHAPTER II. LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL OF ST. JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULÊME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTE FOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A LONELY REGION.--HOTEL INTERIOR.--INGENIOUS INVENTION.--TABLE D'HÔTE 16 CHAPTER III. THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FOR SPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTER IN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--ST. SEBASTIAN.--THE ALAMEDA PROMENADE.--THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA 34 CHAPTER IV. BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISH CHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONVENT OF LA CARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE CID.--THE CATHEDRAL.--HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY 57 CHAPTER V. AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--VALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THE COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONVENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OF HORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.--SPANISH CHARACTERISTICS.--THE THEATRE.--USE OF TOBACCO 80 CHAPTER VI. EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICAL CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THE WILDERNESS.--AVILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THE ADUANEROS.--MADRID.--HOTEL DE LOS PRINCIPES.--PUERTA DEL SOL 103 CHAPTER VII. MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMES AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEÑOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEEN ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE VIRGIN'S WARDROBE.--THE ROYAL ARMERIA.--REMARKABLE PAINTINGS.--CHURCH IN THE CALLE DE TOLEDO 122 CHAPTER VIII.