The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Biarritz is a town situated on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, and
consists chiefly of hotels and boarding-houses built on rocks. It is
peopled generally by emperors, waiters, hawkers of spurious Spanish
goods, and very idle ladies and gentlemen. Creatures like mermaids,
with their extremities encased in mackintosh, are seen nearly all day
long sporting about in the waters which break upon the yellow sand, and
dancing quadrilles in the sea with very odd-looking fish of the male
gender, also swathed in curious garments, which cause them at a little
distance to resemble very badly rolled-up umbrellas, or an imperfect
class of sausages. Barring the bathing, the amusements of Biarritz,
or Biarits, as some of the natives write it, are very dear and rather
silly. People revolve nightly on their own axes to the solemn strains
of a horn band in a large casino, with expressions of countenance
as serious and business-like as if they were undergoing a course of
rotatory exercise recommended by their medical advisers as a stimulant
after the chills of the bath; while the day is consumed, one hardly
knows how, except it be in flirting, aquatics, scandal, abuse of one's
neighbours, or in buying from gaudy coffee-coloured Spaniards trumpery
which, under no conceivable circumstances, could the most ingenious
mind ever turn to any account. There is certainly grand food for the
eye whichever way it may turn, "whene'er we take our walks abroad," for
the long jagged line of the Spanish mountains is seen, now clear, dark,
and sharp, now wild and storm-wrapped, rising loftily from the far blue
main; and there is always playing on one's cheek, or with the flowing
tress of many a pretty damsel, the pure strengthening air of the Bay of
Biscay, sweeping with untainted breath from across the dark, wild waves
of the rolling Atlantic. From the summits of the various sea-worn rocks
and pinnacles which jut out from the land may be seen beautiful views
of the white amphitheatre of Biarritz, formed by clusters of villas,
casinos, and bathing pavilions along the curving shore, or piled on
gentle hills, rising one above the other in picturesque confusion, with
their sunny walls shaded here and there by green shrubberies, or gay
with flaunting banners waving over shining terrace and grassy slope,
the stately Villa Eugénie of the Empress commanding the whole. In front
the restless waves are ever rolling in on the yellow sands, in their
ceaseless chase from the Bay of Biscay, spread out so broad, blue, and
beautiful; while to the south the distant skies seem walled up by that
grand dark chain of the Spanish mountains, towering through clouds and
tempests in wild and lofty grandeur, or melting away on the far horizon
into the heat of the golden day and the spume of the tossing sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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