The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The people at Biarritz seem to be in a chronic state of masquerade. In
some the disease takes a severe and malignant form, in others simply
that of a mild and harmless lunacy. Very fierce and dirty individuals
prowl about the streets, in what is popularly supposed to be the
Spanish costume, namely, shabby velveteen inexpressibles, jackets
covered with a perfect eruption of buttons and bobbins, and the
calves of their legs swathed in linen bandages, as if they were in a
general state of poultice. These individuals have dreadful long Spanish
knives to sell, knives which, when any Englishman is so infatuated
as to decline buying Birmingham cutlery at Biarritz, they grasp in
a very portentous manner, opening and shutting them with an air of
determination which is most alarming to the weak and nervous.
"Who comes in foreign trashery
Of tinkling chain and spur,
A walking haberdashery
Of feathers, lace, and fur?"
Who indeed? the poet might well ask on the afternoon parade at
Biarritz; and it is not at all certain that the people know themselves.
There are gentlemen in short white jackets made of blanket,
lemon-coloured tights, and Napoleon boots, or in knickerbockers and
top-boots, Scotch plaids, and very tall hats, with brims so narrow as
to be rather problematical. The British traveller is, of course, to be
seen there, as everywhere else, with a beard in that state which one
does not know whether to attribute to neglect or intention.
The ladies simply _dress at_ one another, and the extravagance of their
costumes can only be conceived by minds of the calibre of Gilray, or
by such as can picture to themselves Paris fashion gone mad. We saw
one lady in short skirts and Hessian boots, with little bells for
tassels. The dress itself was so stiff with embroidery and needlework
that it would have made a capital diving-bell; and the jacket was so
profusely embroidered with lace that it seemed made of solid gold.
Nearly every lady finds it necessary, for some at present inscrutable
reason,--which, however, like other mysteries will some day be made
known,--to walk about with a slender white wand with a nail at the end.
What are these sticks? Are they fetishes, or are they connected with
any form of superstition. Why are they adorned with nails? And for what
reason are they carried like toothpicks between the finger and thumb
of a tight kid-gloved hand? We should also like to ask why do young
English ladies at foreign _tables d'hôte_ always appear as if somebody
was perpetually on the point of whispering something improper to them?
Their frightened air, indeed, as one out of common politeness prepares
to address them with some commonplace remark, is so infectious that it
is a wonder one does not fall plump into a perfect mire of mistakes and
_gaucheries_, a miserable martyr to the cause of amiability.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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