The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca — John Shaqi
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
As the train moved away from Burgos, the city and the great cathedral
melted away from our sight, and we glided over the wide African-like
plains and dried-up watercourses, past the stony hills which, extending
to the far horizon, reflected the dazzling rays of the sun. Not a blade
of grass or sprig of green was there to refresh the eye of man, or for
cattle to ruminate on. No wonder the butter of the country is made of
lard, or the milk we drink taken from the mare!
At a little station where the train stopped, an old lady, closely
hooded in black serge, and looking like the popular representation of
Old Bogey, entered our carriage, together with a monk. Where they came
from it was impossible to conjecture, as there was no sign of village
or habitation within sight of this very purposeless station in the
desert. They were attended, however, by the usual escort in vogue in
this country, a portion of which immediately leapt upon us and bit us.
The poor insects had made but a scanty meal of their innutritious monk,
and came to us for their _chasse café_, or rather _chasse moine_.
We arrived in the evening at Valladolid, once the capital town of
Spain. Indeed, in spite of its position in the centre of a wide,
wind-swept, sandy plain, which causes the city to be the sport of
a chronic simoom, it seems to be a capital town still. For trade
and agriculture the situation appears convenient, for, wonderful
to say, they have got some water amidst the _tierras de campos_,
which consequently yield abundant produce; added to which, the river
Duero connects the city with the Atlantic--in a rather difficult and
spasmodic manner, however--and the railroad maintains its commercial
relations with the south and north. The name of Valladolid is supposed
to be derived from the Moorish Belad Walid, or land of the Walid. This
may be, however, as "our bore" said at the _table d'hôte_, "inwalid,"
and not to be relied upon.
In the Plaza Mayor of this city, the great Alvarez de Luna, "Spain's
haughty constable," was beheaded. "Uneasy lies the head that wears
a crown," and how uneasy must sit the head that trusts in princes,
especially old princes who marry young queens, for all sense of honour,
justice, and gratitude seems to walk out of the door when uxoriousness
comes in at the window.
Here, in 1506, Columbus departed this life, and Philip II., the
fortunate possessor of our sweet queen, Mary of England, came into it
on May 21st, 1527. Here, in the sixteenth century, _auto-da-fés_ and
periodical bonfires of heretics were kept up with great spirit,--one
being under the especial patronage of the above-mentioned blessed
monarch, upon a scale of unprecedented magnificence. Here, Cervantes
lived and wrote, and here, we regret to be obliged to add, the Duke
of Wellington made his public entry, and took up his residence in the
bishop's palace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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