Parasols, however, were still very little used in the seventeenth
century; the /Précieuses/ who, instead of saying "It rains," cried
out, "/The third element falls!/" would never have missed finding
some amiable qualificative to designate this necessary article
invented against Phœbus and Saint Swithin. But Saumaise reveals to us
nought on this subject, and one would be almost tempted to believe
that the /Philamintes/ and /Calpurnies/ attached no importance to
this "rustic and movable Pavilion." What, however, is clearly shown
by the ancient prints is the employment of the Parasol in the form
of a small round canopy which ladies of quality had borne by their
valets when walking in the primly arranged gardens of their lordly
residences, whilst the gentlemen marched before, wrapt in their
cloaks, with the felt hat inclined over one eye.
Parasols were then of so coarse a form, and their weight made them so
difficult to be carried, that they could not be easily utilised by
ordinary people; they are never found in any of those very curious
engravings which give a confused idea of the rumblings and mobs of
the streets under Louis XIV. Boileau and François Colletet have not
mentioned them amidst the /Obstacles and Bustle of Paris/; and the
/Cries of the Town/ which have come down to us do not indicate that
in the seventeenth century any man with "/'Brella-a-a-a-s to sell!/"
had contributed his mournful melopæa to the lagging cries of the
street.
That is easily understood. We see that a Parasol, in the middle of
the grand century, weighed 1600 grammes, that its whalebones had
a length of 80 centimetres, that its handle was of heavy oak, and
that its massive carcass was covered with oilcloth, with barracan,
or with coloured grogram. The whole was held by a copper ring fixed
at the extremity of the whalebones; it was the labour of a porter
to preserve oneself, with an instrument like this, from the pelting
shower! Better still: often these Parasols were made of straw, and,
if we believe the /Diary and Correspondence of Evelyn/, about 1650,
they affected in some degree the form of metal dish-covers.
However, it is something very like a Sunshade which we find about
1688 in the hands of a woman of quality, dressed in a summer habit
/à la Grecque/, of which N. Arnoult has preserved faithfully for us
the pleasing outline, in a pretty design made common by engravings.
This Parasol has the appearance of a mushroom, well developed and
slightly flattened at its borders; the red velvet which covers it is
divided into ribs or rays, by light girdles of gold, and the handle,
very curiously worked, is like that of a distaff, with swellings and
grooves executed by the turner. Altogether, this coquette's Sunshade
is very graceful, and of great richness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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