Like all objects of adornment in the hands of women, the Sunshade in
the last century became, like the Fan, almost a light and graceful
plaything, serving to punctuate an expression, to round a gesture,
to arm an attitude of charming reverie, in which, guided by pretty
indolent fingers, its point traces vague designs upon the sand.
Before the burning breath of amorous declarations, often the frail
Sunshade escapes from the hands of a beauty, in sign of armistice,
and as an avowal of abandonment.
Be it open, and daintily held over powdered hair, or shut, and
brushing the brocaded petticoat, it is always the "balancing pole
of the Graces." It gives a value to listlessness on the rustic seat
of the parks, under the vaulted roofs of grottoes, and it adds a
piquancy to the frowardness of the feminine chatterers, who defend
themselves by making fun of libertine attacks. In a word, in the
light amorous allegories of the century, it is worthy to appear in
those love-duets of /Leanders/ and /Isabellas/, which Watteau often
composed with so rare an art of refinement.
From the middle of the last century the Umbrella of taffety became
the fashion at Paris. Caraccioli, in his /Picturesque and Sententious
Dictionary/, gives us evidence of this: "It has long been the
custom," he says, "not to go out save with one's Umbrella, and to
trouble oneself by carrying it under one's arm. Those who wish not to
be confounded with the vulgar, prefer to run the risk of getting wet
to being regarded as people who walk on foot, for the Umbrella is the
sign of having no carriage."
The Parasols were made by the purse-makers, and when, by an edict of
August 1776, the manufacturers of gloves, purses, and girdles were
united in one community, an article thus conceived may be read in
their statutes: "They alone also still have the right to make and
manufacture all sorts of Umbrellas and Parasols, in whalebone and in
copper, folding and non-folding, to garnish them atop with stuffs of
silk and linen, to make Umbrellas of oilcloth, and Parasols adorned
and ornamented in all sorts of fashions." According to the /Journal
of a Citizen/, published at the Hague in 1754, the price of folding
Parasols was then from 15 to 22 livres a piece, and the Parasol for
the country from 9 to 14 livres.
We must, however, believe that the common folk of Paris did not yet
dare to purchase Parasols, since Bachaumont, in the /Secret Memoirs/,
dated 6th September 1769, records the following enterprise:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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