Spanish Gloves are reproached with too strong a smell; the French
ladies suffer strangely from their too heady odour: Antonio Perez
would certainly have been an excellent manufacturer of perfumed
Gloves--discreet in his scents, distinguished in his form.
The Gloves most in vogue after the time of La Fronde were the
Gloves of Rome, of Grenoble, of Blois, of Esla, and of Paris. M. de
Chanteloup charged Poussin to buy him Roman Gloves, and the latter
wrote back on 7th October, 1646: "Here are a dozen pairs of Gloves,
half men's, half women's. They cost half-a-pistole a pair, which
makes eighteen crowns for the whole." The 18th October, 1649, another
purchase; but this time they are Gloves scented with Frangipane,
with which Poussin provided himself for M. de Chanteloup; and
these he bought at la Signora Maddelena's, "a woman famous for her
perfumes." In Paris, according to /The Convenient Address Book/ of
Nicolas de Blegny--the Bottin of 1692--there were a certain number of
manufacturers of perfumed Gloves in the Rue de l'Arbre-Sec and the
Rue Saint-Honoré. "There are," says the editor of this commercial
almanac, "Glove-merchants very well stocked; for instance, M. Remy,
opposite Saint-Méderic, who is famous for his excellent buck-skin
Gloves; Arsan, hard by the Abbey Saint-Germain; Richard, Rue
Saint-Denis, /at the little St. John/, well known for his Gloves of
/Fowl-skin/; and Richard, Rue Galande, at /the Great King/, whose
commerce is in doeskin Gloves."
The name of fowl-skin Glove doubtless astonishes you--another name
was outer lamb skin; they were made for the use of ladies during
the summer. The pretended fowl-skin was nothing but the epidermis of
kid-skin, and the preparation of this epidermis was the real triumph
of the Glove-merchants of Paris and Rome. Gloves of /Canepin/, or
outer lamb's-skin, were made, it is said, so delicate and thin, that
a pair of them could be easily enclosed in a walnut shell.
The buck-skin or buffalo-skin Glove was specially made for falconers;
it covered the right hand half up the arm, thus completely protecting
it against the claws, or rather the talons, of the bird, falcon,
gerfalcon, or sparrow-hawk, when it came to settle on their fist.
Hawking existed even under Louis XIII., but it was no longer the
grand and splendid epoch of this aristocratic sport, so profoundly
interesting. In one of his ancient legends, André le Chapelain,
of whom Stendhal wrote a short biographical notice, speaks of a
sparrow-hawk, to gain which the magic Glove was necessary. This Glove
could only be obtained by a victory in the lists over two of the most
formidable champions of Christendom. It was suspended to a golden
column, and very carefully guarded. But when the knight had by his
skill gained the Glove, he saw the beautiful sparrow-hawk so much
desired swoop down immediately upon his fist.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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