Up to the age of Louis XIV., the skin Glove was destined rather
for the use of men, and it was only under this Prince that Gloves
mounting a long way up the arm, and long Mittens of silk netting to
set off the hands of women, were generally adopted by them.
Gloves /à l'occasion/, /à la Cadenet/, /à la Phyllis/, /à la
Frangipane/, /à la Néroli/, Gloves /of the last cut/ worn awhile by
the /Précieuses/, ceased to be fashionable about 1680. The custom, of
which Tallemant speaks, of presenting ladies, after the banquet, with
basins of Spanish Gloves, was only vulgarised in passing from the
Court to the town.
Dangeau, in his /Memoirs/, has written a chapter on the /Etiquette
of Gloves and the Ceremonial of Mittens/. I refer you to it without
ceremony.
Under Louis XV., in the eighteenth century, so full of the rustle
of silk, so enchanting that I fear to stop on it in your company,
lest I should never leave it, the wearing of Gloves quickly became
an enormous luxury. All those fair coquettes, whom you have seen
at their toilets, or their /petit lever/, after Nattier, Pater, or
Moreau, surrounded by their "/filles de modes/," caused a greater
massacre of Gloves at the time of trying them on, than our richest
worldlings of to-day. These Gloves were of kid, of thread, and
of silk; the most celebrated came from Vendôme, from Blois, from
Grenoble, and from Paris; they were generally made of white skin,
wretchedly sewn, but the cut was extremely graceful, with its cuff
falling from the wrist over the hand, and small ribbons and fine
rosettes of carnation interlaced on this cuff.
Gloves sewn after the English fashion were highly appreciated. It
became a proverb, that for a Glove to be good, three realms must have
contributed to it: "Spain to prepare the skin and make it supple,
France to cut it, and England to sew it."
Caraccioli maintains that a woman of fashion, about the middle of the
eighteenth century, would not dispense with changing her Gloves four
or five times a day. "The /petits-maîtres/," he adds, "never fail to
put on, in the morning, Gloves of rose or /jonquil/, perfumed by the
celebrated Dulac." As to Mittens, the same observer of the century
notices them as specially belonging to women. "Nevertheless," he
says, "in winter the manufacturers make furred Mittens, and men now
wear them when they travel."
Madame de Genlis has this curious observation in her /Dictionary of
Etiquette/: "If you have anything to present to a princess, and have
your Glove on, you must needs take it off."
How many anecdotes, how many literary souvenirs, the Glove of the
eighteenth century summons to the thought!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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